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Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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t-bone
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Post by t-bone » Fri Jul 22, 2005 8:05 pm

I think you may need to rethink the 11a grade on your topo for this climb. I've rp'ed pretty much all the 11's at Saltsheds and Chek and couldn't even do the moves on this one on toprope. Same for my partner....he leads low 5.12. There is no way this route is easier then Skank (soft 11b).

Any thought?

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5.4 Slayer
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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:42 pm

It's a typo. It's 11c in Marc Bourdon's guide book. I think kneebars are key to keeping it at 11c. If you want beta just pm me.

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MCpl
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Post by MCpl » Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:44 pm

I think that's a typo on the downloadable topo. In the latest Squamish select guidebook.... its 11c.

But, as a side note, just because you can't do a move, doesn't mean its harder then what you have climbed before. Granted, its a good way to reference difficulty. I climb low 13s and there are some 11s I can't do. doesn't mean they're sandbagged.

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Post by MCpl » Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:46 pm

5.4 is a faster typer than I am.

Knee bars??? Its a verticle face. From what I remember its how you grab the "x" looking hold.

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Post by 5.4 Slayer » Sat Jul 23, 2005 5:19 am

Yeah but just below the X is a small roof. It's far harder than 11c for me without the kneebars.

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I think...

Post by Strongbad » Sat Jul 23, 2005 3:37 pm

I think its 11d. But what do I know.

Pete

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Post by t-bone » Sat Jul 23, 2005 7:08 pm

11c eh?
I'll have to try the kneebar. How do you get into it from the huge hold under the mini-roof?

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kneebar

Post by dakine » Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:23 pm

yep it goes easy with a kneebar under the little roof.. no more than 11c and I am a weak a$%... th X is key tho stack fingers on right hand worked nice for me.

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kneebar

Post by dakine » Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:23 pm

yep it goes easy with a kneebar under the little roof.. no more than 11c and I am a weak a$%... th X is key tho stack fingers on right hand worked nice for me.

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Post by MCpl » Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:33 am

Well Dakine, you're right about a couple of things. The finger stack is key, and you are a weak a$%. hehehe So now you're using knee bars eh. You've been hanging with GK way too much.

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hmmmm

Post by dakine » Tue Jul 26, 2005 11:02 am

yep weak as a kitten .. and yes i've learned a little technique ie kneebars

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