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[t-bone]

I think you may need to rethink the 11a grade on your topo for this climb. I've rp'ed pretty much all the 11's at Saltsheds and Chek and couldn't even do the moves on this one on toprope. Same for my partner....he leads low 5.12. There is no way this route is easier then Skank (soft 11b).

Any thought?

[5.4 Slayer]

It's a typo. It's 11c in Marc Bourdon's guide book. I think kneebars are key to keeping it at 11c. If you want beta just pm me.

[MCpl]

I think that's a typo on the downloadable topo. In the latest Squamish select guidebook.... its 11c.

But, as a side note, just because you can't do a move, doesn't mean its harder then what you have climbed before. Granted, its a good way to reference difficulty. I climb low 13s and there are some 11s I can't do. doesn't mean they're sandbagged.

[MCpl]

5.4 is a faster typer than I am.

Knee bars??? Its a verticle face. From what I remember its how you grab the "x" looking hold.

[5.4 Slayer]

Yeah but just below the X is a small roof. It's far harder than 11c for me without the kneebars.

[Strongbad]

I think its 11d. But what do I know.

Pete

[t-bone]

11c eh?
I'll have to try the kneebar. How do you get into it from the huge hold under the mini-roof?

[dakine]

yep it goes easy with a kneebar under the little roof.. no more than 11c and I am a weak a$%... th X is key tho stack fingers on right hand worked nice for me.

[dakine]

yep it goes easy with a kneebar under the little roof.. no more than 11c and I am a weak a$%... th X is key tho stack fingers on right hand worked nice for me.

[MCpl]

Well Dakine, you're right about a couple of things. The finger stack is key, and you are a weak a$%. hehehe So now you're using knee bars eh. You've been hanging with GK way too much.

[dakine]

yep weak as a kitten .. and yes i've learned a little technique ie kneebars