Return to Sender

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
Post Reply
t-bone
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 112
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 7:49 am

Return to Sender

Post by t-bone » Fri Jul 22, 2005 8:05 pm

I think you may need to rethink the 11a grade on your topo for this climb. I've rp'ed pretty much all the 11's at Saltsheds and Chek and couldn't even do the moves on this one on toprope. Same for my partner....he leads low 5.12. There is no way this route is easier then Skank (soft 11b).

Any thought?

User avatar
5.4 Slayer
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 418
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:54 am
Location: Surrey, BC

Post by 5.4 Slayer » Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:42 pm

It's a typo. It's 11c in Marc Bourdon's guide book. I think kneebars are key to keeping it at 11c. If you want beta just pm me.

User avatar
MCpl
Super Member
Super Member
Posts: 1279
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:31 am
Location: Lower Mainland

Post by MCpl » Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:44 pm

I think that's a typo on the downloadable topo. In the latest Squamish select guidebook.... its 11c.

But, as a side note, just because you can't do a move, doesn't mean its harder then what you have climbed before. Granted, its a good way to reference difficulty. I climb low 13s and there are some 11s I can't do. doesn't mean they're sandbagged.

User avatar
MCpl
Super Member
Super Member
Posts: 1279
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:31 am
Location: Lower Mainland

Post by MCpl » Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:46 pm

5.4 is a faster typer than I am.

Knee bars??? Its a verticle face. From what I remember its how you grab the "x" looking hold.

User avatar
5.4 Slayer
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 418
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:54 am
Location: Surrey, BC

Post by 5.4 Slayer » Sat Jul 23, 2005 5:19 am

Yeah but just below the X is a small roof. It's far harder than 11c for me without the kneebars.

Strongbad
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 154
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 8:52 am

I think...

Post by Strongbad » Sat Jul 23, 2005 3:37 pm

I think its 11d. But what do I know.

Pete

t-bone
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 112
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 7:49 am

Post by t-bone » Sat Jul 23, 2005 7:08 pm

11c eh?
I'll have to try the kneebar. How do you get into it from the huge hold under the mini-roof?

dakine
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 212
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 11:20 am
Location: burnaby

kneebar

Post by dakine » Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:23 pm

yep it goes easy with a kneebar under the little roof.. no more than 11c and I am a weak a$%... th X is key tho stack fingers on right hand worked nice for me.

dakine
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 212
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 11:20 am
Location: burnaby

kneebar

Post by dakine » Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:23 pm

yep it goes easy with a kneebar under the little roof.. no more than 11c and I am a weak a$%... th X is key tho stack fingers on right hand worked nice for me.

User avatar
MCpl
Super Member
Super Member
Posts: 1279
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:31 am
Location: Lower Mainland

Post by MCpl » Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:33 am

Well Dakine, you're right about a couple of things. The finger stack is key, and you are a weak a$%. hehehe So now you're using knee bars eh. You've been hanging with GK way too much.

dakine
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 212
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 11:20 am
Location: burnaby

hmmmm

Post by dakine » Tue Jul 26, 2005 11:02 am

yep weak as a kitten .. and yes i've learned a little technique ie kneebars

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 70 guests