New Crag - Fern Hill

[Peter]

No topo yet but:

Take the Mamquam Forest Service Road (same as for the Squaw) drive past the Squaw, turn left at the "intersection" follow it all the way to the end while always staying left. Park in an obvious area, left of the gated Epcor sign. People park here for mountain biking and white water rafting. Take the major trail staying left through the cement blocks and up the hill, here there is a mountain bike trail called "The Farther Side" (sign). Follow the trail for about 8-10 min, once the switchbacks stop and the trail sort of peaks there will be a trail cutting up left under a fir? tree that makes a b-line straight for the crag. If you miss this part, no big deal, it's only a shortcut. You can stay on the bike trail, always staying left and it will eventually cross below the crag. There is pink flaggin tape for the trail up to the wall.

Faces east, sun until 1230 or so

Left to Right: STICK TO THE BOLT LINES, A COUPLE GET CLOSE W/EACH OTHER:
10b(far left).......12a,12a.....12+,11a,11d,11a,11c(dyke),12+,12+,next 2 start from ledge 12-,11a
most grades are in chalk at the start, fixed anchors with biners, all fairly long but 60 is fine.

[MCpl]

Thanks for all the work Peter.

I was going to come out and help this Spring... but I got busy. I'll come check them out in the next little while.

[5.4 Slayer]

Too bad there weren't any more 12's - that'd be perfect (joking of course)
Is it steep Peter? Any pics?

Thanks for the climbs.

[Peter]

yeah, they're all steep. Fun and varied, most are 25-30m, there's still lots more going on, potential for about 25 routes or so, currently working on some easier lines

[dakine]

Three of us climbed Fern Hill today and had a great time we didn't make it to any of the 12's but the 11's were superb!!!!
The 10B is the best 10B I've done 30 ish meters of excellent climbing great warm up.
Thanks for all the hard work putting them up I can't wait to try the 12's!

[Peter]

New 5.7 left of the 10b, more scrubbing in the area so both will be a bit dusty.

[MGarcia]

Hey Peter,

Do you need any help? Can only do the weekends, if so, drop a line.

And, drill one 8 and one 9 for the wife please

Thanks for the hard work.

[mcgarnickle]

Tried some of the routes this saturday. Does the leftmost 12+ have a name yet? Has this thing been sent? Really amazing line, looks like it didn't need much cleaning to get that way.

It's very similar to Just Can't Do it at forgotten wall, a touch easier maybe, but not much. If 12+ was just a guesstimate, I'd agree it could be 12d. The move at the 4th bolt is very hard, and gonna be much harder for someone shorter than 5'10".

Thanks for the great work establishing this crag, the 11a to the right has an awesome finish! Best in smoke bluffs.

[Peter]

They've all been sent, that's why they're open

All 3 hard 12's are as + b/c I'm not sure on the exact grades, 2 of them have been repeated except for the right most one...to my knowledge anyways. So far I think the left one is the hardest, it's called Snowglobe.

Thanx for the comments.

[bradley3297]

excellent new crag. great addition to local squamish crags. classic 5.11 with the roof is a real gem.

[Yojimbo]

Cool, a new cliff since I moved away from Squish! Good work guys.

Any updates on the routes here? Any more new routes since last month?