New Fixed Chain on Broadway

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gnarnaphobe
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New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by gnarnaphobe » Wed Jul 18, 2012 6:49 am

I recent spotted a new fixed chain right where fixed lines normally get chopped..

Whats everyone opinion on the matter?
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

rolfr
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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by rolfr » Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:06 am

That should make it much easier to set up top ropes on the Apron
Last edited by rolfr on Wed Jul 18, 2012 1:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

natsdad
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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by natsdad » Wed Jul 18, 2012 10:52 am

Hi Gnarnaphobe:

Where along Broadway ledge is this new fixed chain? Is it climbers' left or right of Diedre?

Steve

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gnarnaphobe
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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by gnarnaphobe » Wed Jul 18, 2012 11:58 am

The chain is across the thin spot climbers left of the top of diedre on the way over to memorial.

The bolt heads have been covered with an epoxy or cement compound the make the inevitable chopping a bit more of a chore.

The way I see it; its no different the putting a fixed chain across the unprotectable traverses on the traverses on bpeel and diedre...

-Luke
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

Lurch
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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by Lurch » Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:55 pm

Chop. If you can't scramble across then your partner should give you a belay. Basic rope skills.

NateDoggOG
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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by NateDoggOG » Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:58 pm

Saw it as well. Unnecessary; if you got up via a climb (as I imagine most people do) then a little fourth class down scramble should not be an issue.

MarkR
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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by MarkR » Wed Jul 18, 2012 4:51 pm

Out of curiosity, what are people's opinions on the fixed ropes above the Roman Chimneys?

steven
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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by steven » Wed Jul 18, 2012 7:20 pm

I found the length/positioning of the chain to be confusing. I might have missed something (haven't done that walk off a lot) but it seems like one of the "moves" a few feet past the chains is just as technical, if not more technical, then the section the chain protects.

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psi4ce
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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by psi4ce » Wed Jul 18, 2012 9:47 pm

A chain? That's absurd.

Who put it there?

Seriously, I want to know who.

And why.

Because, it's in all likelihood going to get chopped, by someone, and now we will have ugly bolt scars adorning the classic Apron sketchy 4th class traverse, which only ever used to require a belay, if that!

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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by Khoi » Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:55 pm

I just saw it today. It took me a few minutes to figure out what the heck itwas for.

I second what Steven said.

I dont' understand why someone would go through the trouble of buying it, carrying it up, and installing it when it is noticeably on the short side for what it is supposedly supposed to do.

It's a glaring example of so much done for so little gain.
~Khoi

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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by Anders Ourom » Sat Jul 21, 2012 6:04 pm

This issue has been the subject of considerable debate in the past, here and elsewhere. It is disturbing that someone would anonymously take such actions without first discussing it and seeking consensus, with e.g. help from the Access Society. Perhaps whoever did this could identify himself, and tell us what the motivation was, and why there was no notice to others.

I oppose any sort of fixed line or chain along Broadway. It flouts 50 years in which we've managed just fine without it (the last twenty+ quite busy), makes it no safer (an attentive belay and anchors are all that's needed, if that), and is a bad precedent. If anyone removes it, please do a clean job.

There are wider issues regarding the proliferation of convenience anchors and handlines at Squamish (and similar installations), and climbers taking controversial actions without discussion.

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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by relic » Mon Jul 23, 2012 10:04 pm

Wow, seems like this is a weird fixation someone has on this stretch of Broadway ledge. So what is next, a via ferrata perhaps? It would be really neat-o if this clandestine ledge fixer would out themselves and talk about this. Until then, I guess it's booty time.

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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by Anders Ourom » Sat Jul 28, 2012 12:14 pm

What has happened to these anchors and chains? Still there, removed, or? Has anyone got photos of them?

I'm quite opposed to fixed chains, ropes and the like along Broadway. However, there may be something to be said for fixed anchors at the start of the climb down to Diedre, essentially at the south end of the treed area. That would allow a single rappel down and into the trees at the top of Diedre. But even something of that sort should be discussed first, before being added.

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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by scrubber » Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:12 pm

Chain is still there. Remember when a single bolt suddenly appeared there about 12 years ago? It lasted less than a week...

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Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

Post by Axilla » Thu Aug 02, 2012 9:59 pm

Still up there as of this evening.

Simon tried to gnaw through it but lost a couple teeth and gave up.

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