New Fixed Chain on Broadway

[gnarnaphobe]

I recent spotted a new fixed chain right where fixed lines normally get chopped..

Whats everyone opinion on the matter?

[rolfr]

That should make it much easier to set up top ropes on the Apron

[natsdad]

Hi Gnarnaphobe:

Where along Broadway ledge is this new fixed chain? Is it climbers' left or right of Diedre?

Steve

[gnarnaphobe]

The chain is across the thin spot climbers left of the top of diedre on the way over to memorial.

The bolt heads have been covered with an epoxy or cement compound the make the inevitable chopping a bit more of a chore.

The way I see it; its no different the putting a fixed chain across the unprotectable traverses on the traverses on bpeel and diedre...

-Luke

[Lurch]

Chop. If you can't scramble across then your partner should give you a belay. Basic rope skills.

[NateDoggOG]

Saw it as well. Unnecessary; if you got up via a climb (as I imagine most people do) then a little fourth class down scramble should not be an issue.

[MarkR]

Out of curiosity, what are people's opinions on the fixed ropes above the Roman Chimneys?

[steven]

I found the length/positioning of the chain to be confusing. I might have missed something (haven't done that walk off a lot) but it seems like one of the "moves" a few feet past the chains is just as technical, if not more technical, then the section the chain protects.

[psi4ce]

A chain? That's absurd.

Who put it there?

Seriously, I want to know who.

And why.

Because, it's in all likelihood going to get chopped, by someone, and now we will have ugly bolt scars adorning the classic Apron sketchy 4th class traverse, which only ever used to require a belay, if that!

[Khoi]

I just saw it today. It took me a few minutes to figure out what the heck itwas for.

I second what Steven said.

I dont' understand why someone would go through the trouble of buying it, carrying it up, and installing it when it is noticeably on the short side for what it is supposedly supposed to do.

It's a glaring example of so much done for so little gain.

[Anders Ourom]

This issue has been the subject of considerable debate in the past, here and elsewhere. It is disturbing that someone would anonymously take such actions without first discussing it and seeking consensus, with e.g. help from the Access Society. Perhaps whoever did this could identify himself, and tell us what the motivation was, and why there was no notice to others.

I oppose any sort of fixed line or chain along Broadway. It flouts 50 years in which we've managed just fine without it (the last twenty+ quite busy), makes it no safer (an attentive belay and anchors are all that's needed, if that), and is a bad precedent. If anyone removes it, please do a clean job.

There are wider issues regarding the proliferation of convenience anchors and handlines at Squamish (and similar installations), and climbers taking controversial actions without discussion.

[relic]

Wow, seems like this is a weird fixation someone has on this stretch of Broadway ledge. So what is next, a via ferrata perhaps? It would be really neat-o if this clandestine ledge fixer would out themselves and talk about this. Until then, I guess it's booty time.

[Anders Ourom]

What has happened to these anchors and chains? Still there, removed, or? Has anyone got photos of them?

I'm quite opposed to fixed chains, ropes and the like along Broadway. However, there may be something to be said for fixed anchors at the start of the climb down to Diedre, essentially at the south end of the treed area. That would allow a single rappel down and into the trees at the top of Diedre. But even something of that sort should be discussed first, before being added.

[scrubber]

Chain is still there. Remember when a single bolt suddenly appeared there about 12 years ago? It lasted less than a week...

[Axilla]

Still up there as of this evening.

Simon tried to gnaw through it but lost a couple teeth and gave up.