routes on North Walls?

[EnigmaM]

saw a line with a lone bolt above second pitch of blazing saddles- any info?
saw a bolted line merging with Hot Rod on an arete- any info?
any beta on that 11b that has long since overgrown next to 3rd pitch of borderline?

thanks.

[EricHirst]

any beta on that 11b that has long since overgrown next to 3rd pitch of borderline?

It's good, but very hard, and probably never saw a second redpoint after we abandoned it and gave it to Robert Cobb for the FFA. When we were working on Borderline, I felt it was more like 11c or 11d, and that p2 of Borderline was 11b.

It protects well with TCU's and LoweBall type nuts.

It was originally intended as p3 of Borderline, and could still become part of a longer hard line on that wall. As it ended up, though, it mostly turned out to be a good way to pendulum over to the bush line that would become the long 10a/b splitter on the current p3.

If you feel like cleaning it up and giving it a go, you can aid it, or get there in 2 rappels from the top of p5 of Borderline, via an intermediate Fixe ring station hidden in the brush about 20m right (a hard swing) of the p4 anchors.

-Eric

gotta get back to Squamish, except there are so many rocks in Washington too...