Rehabilitation Retroscrubbery

[XXXX]

"Jugular Vein" 5.9 and "Mad Science" 10b were given a brush-up on Sunday and are as clean as they ever were now.

"Idiot Savant" is still kinda scruffy, but climbable. Would have done a better retroscrub job here but the head broke off my brush.

In the Bourdon guide, the locations of MS and IS are reversed. Mad Science is the middle line of the three.

The blackflies are biting nasty right now.

I'm thinking about adding a fixed line on the 3rd class dirt slab approach to JV? Any opinions yea or nay?

[CrackHead Brad]

Nice job on the retro, you must have been eaten alive. The black flies were merciless.

Liked the routes but got really confused with the Bourdon guide layout; still unclear on what's what...

I think a fixed line to JS (??) might help but found the return journey across the pine needled slab back to the main trail more exposed...one slip could put you at the base of the stump wall.

Seems one of the top anchors on JS has been taken by the mysterious bolt fairy again.

[XXXX]

well it works like this. the old anchor on JV used to be 3m below the top, but even with that, you couldn't make it down with a 25m rope. you had to rap off the end and downclimb 2m.

so after realizing that was dumb, the anchor got moved to the top. the old anchor got turned into the 6th bolt. there is an extra hangerless bolt next to the 6th bolt because i didn't have the tools to chop it off. it is now exactly 30m to rap off. if lowering, LOOK OUT because the route zigzags so there will be more than 30m of rope out when you start to lower. you might come to the end of the rope while lowering and find the climber is still 3 or 4m off the deck.

as for figuring out which route is which...

JV is by itself on the left. climb crack to end, move right onto face past one bolt, straight up past 5 more to the top
MS is in the centre. start near IS and move left past first bolt to ledge. place two tcus off ledge, then climb past 4 or 5 bolts to a horizontal fault (possible #4 Camalot) then 4 more bolts to the top
IS is on the right. Climb straight up (small gear: two med nuts,yellow and orange TCU, and one possible thread) to a bolt, move right (possible #3 camalot), up crimpy face past 2 bolts, then up a slab with good #1 camalot and another thread, to roof. 3 bolts out and over roof then more small nuts and blue + yellow TCUs to the top. not a sport climb.