Copper Cove Rebolting

[AndrewMc]

This saturday I visited copper cove for the first time and did a few climbs there. I noticed some of the bolts were leaking rust, which is a bit disconcerting. So i was thinking of making it a project to replace some or all of the bolts with titanium glue-ins, as the crag is very close to the ocean and could warrent protection that doesnt degrade with exposure to sea water. I was also thinking of adding one or two bolts on the line to the left of the overhang, and maybe elsewhere. I normally wouldnt suggest adding bolts anywhere, but as this is a crag local to vancouver, and rather chossy, i figure its the perfect place for climbs accessible to a wider group of people who might get sketched out easier on lead (read: my girlfriend).

Thoughts?

[PAW]

I think that the replacement of the rusty bolts is justified. The adding of bolts issue well I hope you didnt just unleash 5 pages of the same debate we've everytime. Read other posts gain knowledge do what you think is right, if someone doesnt agree theyll chop your descision.

[AndrewMc]

Agreed.

Actually, i was hoping maybe the people who first bolted copper cove were around, so i could get their opinion.

[J Mace]

The route to the left of the over hang is led fine with a sling over te chicken head before the first bolt. Also I beleive Robin drilled slots for nuts on on some other climbs although XXX would know more.

ive climbed their quite bit and never really had a problem with the bolts on that main wall next to yellow jacket. The all seem well placed to me.

[AndrewMc]

I might retract the adding bolts thing. I had a piece of rock come off in my hand on one of the climbs, which made me suspicious of any gear, but if other people are actively climbing it the way it is, ill leave it. Still would like to replace some of the existing bolts though...

[J Mace]

well if you end up getting a hold of Robin and figure something out I would be more than willing to lend a hand.

Cheers

Jesse

[XXXX]

I was involved in putting up some of the easier routes there. Some of the lines are a bit contrived. Some better lines can be had by linking the start of one route into the finish of another.

Replacing bolts like for like with titanium would be a worthy goal, as would replacing some of Robin's crappy drilled nut lacements on the left hand slab at the left hand of the two crags. Also replacing some of the dead tree stump top anchors with bolt anchors.

Adding bolts is not a good idea. All of the routes are easily leadable and protectable at their listed grades by a climber capable of the grade, although some of them are not good lead choices for a climber not competent at the grade.

It's a fun crag although because there is much potential for conflict with local residents due to the absence of parking, so I hope it never becomes too popular. More than one or two cars parked nearby in that culdesac has the potentia to have the whole place shut down

[AndrewMc]

Anyone know who owns the land?

[J Mace]

I think the place where you park and access the beach is actually a BC park..I think.

The locals so far have been quite nice and im sure if you park up the street it would be ok, but i think two cars is the max there.

[AndrewMc]

Thanks for the info! One more question, who's robin?

[XXXX]

Ummmm... you don't know who Robin Barley is? OK. Welcome to Squamish.

The land the crags is on is West Van Municipal land. It has no park status.
All land below the high tide line is public unless the property owner purchases a foreshore lein or something... not sure exactly what but you can buy this

Thus the access from the public beach to the climbs is public, and the climbs appear to be on municipal land. However, they may be on an undeveloped private lot.

"Public" beaches in West Van generally have been designated and historically used by adjacent landowners that do not have waterfront propertyThey typically have no designated parking areas. There have been several cases where increased usage of "public" beaches by non-West Van residents has led to access restrictions and/or beach acess closing. This is one reason why there is an informal publication ban on any description of the routes at K*********n Park near Lighthouse.

Hence keeping a low profile at Copper Cove (no late night parties, skinny dipping, or parking in driveways, etc) and keeping positive relations with local residents is important in keeping climbers access to these cliffs in place.