C. Eastwood update.

[Axel]

Station added at mid height on "Unforgiven". You now have the option of doing it in two pitches or one and you can rap the route. Also almost finished on the steep wall next to "bloodwork" is a new route that should weigh in at around 12a. "Absolute Power" It's steeepo. Should be done by next weekend. I'll keep you posted.

[Axel]

Ok well "Absolute Power" is done. FA Jody Labonville/Axel Reinhold. 11 bolts + anchor. 30m or so. I would give it 12a from past experience but that is very past experience

Neither Jody and I can link all the moves yet so it needs a Free ascent. We also don't really care so if somebody wants to go and do the FFA, have at it. My draws are on it right now so feel free to use them. Take 2 extras, one for the 5th bolt and one for the last bolt. Enjoy. Oh if you send it let me know. Thanks.

[5.4 Slayer]

Hey, thanks for all the work/routes guys. We had a great day there today. The plan was to grab the ffa on the new 12 but things went horribly wrong. Apparently you guys climb a lot of trad and have thus graded the routes accordingly. We mostly climb sport and I find trad routes almost a number grade harder than sport. We spent the day having our a$$es handed to us on platters. The 11's (sport) went, barely, Hang Em High is spectacular- but didn't go. And as for snatching the ffa on Absolute Power, well, we made it up a few draws and bailed. Good times though! The view is incredible.

[Axel]

I'm glad you enjoyed yourself. Next time you are out there you should get on Pale rider if you haven't done so already. I think it's my favourite route there.

As for "Absolute Power" the move below the 3rd bolt (off the ledge) is quite difficult but it eases up a bit from there. Don't know if you got that far? There are still a few moves after that though. It is entirely possible I am off a bit on the grade too. Then again it's not the "Mary Poppins wall"

If you climb to the top of "Bloodwork" you can set a toprope up on "AP" on your way down. Cheers and hope to see you up there sometime.

Axel

[5.4 Slayer]

How big is the gear in Bloodwork and how many pieces of the bigger gear did you use?

[Axel]

You can do the whole thing with cams. I take everything from some small aliens to a set of camalots to #4, Don't let that frighten you though, there is no offwidth climbing required and actually very little jamming. The faces are littered with holds. Just make sure you stem. The crux is VERY well protected.

The last pitch is bolt protected. I was up there today working on a new line and the conditions were awesome.

Enjoy,
Axel

[Axel]

Sorry just reread your post, i only use the one #4 up top. You won't need more than that, and lately we haven't been using it either.

[dakine]

Hi Axel,
I was up with Slayer on your very cool walls loved the routes and the view
where we found the crux on Absolute Power was right at the small roof about 1/2 way up.... tiny feet and no holds

[Axel]

Ya, that is the second crux for me. I'm short and can barely do the move off the ledge. That move through the roof and to the next rest is pretty hard.

The feet are definitely the tricky part. We get some "ok" finger locks in the crack and then there is an adequate face hold a bit higher.

That's about a third of the way up. There is a good rest after that and then a lot more technical steep climbing.