Overdue Monday morning - from Angel's Crest

[jwildchild]

Does anyone know if the couple who were over due from their Sunday climb on Angel's Crest made it down ok? [/quote]

[YetAnotherDave]

I did it after work on monday, and didn't see anyone. So they made it down - can't vouch for the OK part...

[stick]

Ya they are fine .... had to spend the night but came down in good spirits...they were warned about those north gully retreats by yours truly but decided to go anyway... hahah at least mars provided about ...8 seconds of entertainment that night!

[thebigchin]

I know this has been bashed around int he Angel's Crest beta thread, but I think that the guidebooks should really warn about using the North Gully as a retreat. I think a lot of people climb that route thinking that they can retreat if anything goes wrong. Except for a severe emergency anyone that retreats down that gully will wish that they stayed on route.

Retreating up the gully is a better choice, but still very sketchy and extremely frightening! Do not do it unless you absolutely need to.

[XXXX]

comon dude i soloed North Gully with a broken ankle once

[thebigchin]

I soloed it once and nearly GOT a broken ankle. Not from a fall, but from all the crap that was coming down the hill at me!

That section with the massive boulders that you climb through is extremely cool, tho!!!

[stick]

It's true .... it's not the end of the world to be in there but it is a bit more volitile than what most are used seeing but we are climbers (ish) and should be prepared to deal with that sort of threat. The guide book can't exactly be republished to include that info but that being said, since it's not mentioned, when Kevin Mcleane uses adjectives like "bold" or "runout" you better pay attention. There is more than enough beta out there about the downfalls of the "serious" climbs in the area.

Man!!! it would be cool to have seen those big chock stones come down...and scary... but cool!

[5.4 Slayer]

My brother and I had to desend the gully in the dark with no headlamp. It was ummm, interesting but we were fine until we hit the bottom bushy part. We couldn't see a thing, it was damn hard to stay on the trail.