Building a Bluffs Rack

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
XXXX
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Post by XXXX » Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:31 am

Smoke Bluffs rack

one set of nuts, any company. extra finger size is good if venturing beyond the bluffs.
one full set of cams, any company. anything from Friends to C4s. except Aliens because they suck and the quality control has been retarded since 2004.

two to four tricams (pink on up)

maybe two or three of the largest RPs

you can supplement your set of cams with two or three large rockcentrics like the 8 thru 10, then you can climb at octopus garden :p

ctardi
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Post by ctardi » Wed Aug 02, 2006 9:57 am

XXXX wrote:Smoke Bluffs rack

one set of nuts, any company. extra finger size is good if venturing beyond the bluffs.
one full set of cams, any company. anything from Friends to C4s. except Aliens because they suck and the quality control has been retarded since 2004.

two to four tricams (pink on up)

maybe two or three of the largest RPs

you can supplement your set of cams with two or three large rockcentrics like the 8 thru 10, then you can climb at octopus garden :p
Hmmm, that sounds like exactly what i've got in mind, but I won't get a full set of cams from wone company, am splitting them up. Wasnt going to get aliens anyways.

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Wed Aug 02, 2006 10:28 pm

make sure you at least consider aliens! imo they work better than metolius tcu's, and are more solid!

J Mace
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Post by J Mace » Thu Aug 03, 2006 10:18 am

I think the solid part of Aliens has come in to question over the last year..many people having many problems...may want to wait and see what happens with the selling of the company and stuff..

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Thu Aug 03, 2006 10:59 am

^ interesting... then try c3 camalots?? i haven't used them yet, but the c4's are good!
only beef i have w/ the new c4's is the integrity of the unit!
i remember watching Didier fall off Cobra Crack many times on a 0.4 Camalot (old style and new style).
according to him, the old style lasted about 20 falls and the new one about 4 (to get the same damage). :shock:

obviously this is not too much of a surprise, due to the fact that BD significantly lightened their product, in turn comprosing their integrity!!

and not to mention, we're not all going to take 40 footers on .4 camalots, but if we do, it's nice to know we don't have to run and replace the unit... :o
cheers

Brendan
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Post by Brendan » Thu Aug 03, 2006 11:08 am

i guess lots of companies are compromising the integity of their original product to save weight nowadays? or maybe technology is coming to a point where new materials are being used to keep strength, but save weight...

here's that footage i shot of Didier on Cobra Crack last summer falling on
his 0.4 Camalot!
Image

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