7 new routes at Murrin park
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CrackHead Brad
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7 new routes at Murrin park
Hey everybody !
I 've polished a little more granite for us all to play on. Eight new, mostly sport routes are finished on Lakeside in the Woods-south... aka the new Whinging Wife Wall. They are fun and well protected climbs and serve as some moderate (5.8-5.11) warm ups on the way to the Pet wall. I'll post more details and a topo when I figure out how to use these computer thingys. lol.
I 've polished a little more granite for us all to play on. Eight new, mostly sport routes are finished on Lakeside in the Woods-south... aka the new Whinging Wife Wall. They are fun and well protected climbs and serve as some moderate (5.8-5.11) warm ups on the way to the Pet wall. I'll post more details and a topo when I figure out how to use these computer thingys. lol.
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Climbingjunky
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CrackHead Brad
- Casual Observer
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:40 pm
- Location: SQUATAMALIA
7 new routes at Murrin park
howdy folks,
heres a little more specific info on those above routes. Take the trail from the lake as if going to the pet but after about 100 meters, you'll come to an obvious clean streak with 5 bolts. This is the most southern route on the wall, it is:
The Whinging Wife 5.10 b/c (my best guess-need input) This good climb has a devious and technical crux. So named because it was scrubbed over the Christmas holidays.
sport/chains
Saggy Jugs and Child Bearing Clips 5.10d this sport climb lies 10 meters north (or by back tracking along the trail toward the lake) from the W.W. This climb features a bouldery start with a bit of a slab thang at the top.
8 bolts/chains
Layback and Fake it 5.10a find this trad route 5 meters north from SJ & CBC. Layback the massive flake fin (bolt), layback the bulge, lay-away the crux, or just layback and fake it.
small/med gear and a couple of bolts/ chains @top
A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete 5.9+ Ah, those were the days... This short climb is probably the steepest 5.9 in sea2sky. Ascend the bolted arete immediately on your left as you enter the gully, about 30 meters north of 'Layback and...' If your not on a jug your doing it wrong. This fun route is a tricky on-site for the moderate leader.
5 bolts/chains
In the Doghouse 5.7 Stem and palm wildly across the gully on this unique sport climb. It is located about 4 meters up the gully from BLMA.
Probably 5.4 if your a yoga master, probably 5.12 if you can't touch your toes.
5bolts
Sleepin' on the Couch 5.10b Although slightly contrived, this steep route gives a good pump. Climb the 'In the Doghouse' bolt line directly without stemming back. Easy to top rope.
5bolts
More then just a Pretty Face 5.10c A great route.(in my opinion) Located north of the gully to the left of an old mossy route called Fearless Fraser.
Starts in a small corner leading to an undercling flake. Some may wish a small tcu for the top
5 bolts/chains
please go and climb em
heres a little more specific info on those above routes. Take the trail from the lake as if going to the pet but after about 100 meters, you'll come to an obvious clean streak with 5 bolts. This is the most southern route on the wall, it is:
The Whinging Wife 5.10 b/c (my best guess-need input) This good climb has a devious and technical crux. So named because it was scrubbed over the Christmas holidays.
sport/chains
Saggy Jugs and Child Bearing Clips 5.10d this sport climb lies 10 meters north (or by back tracking along the trail toward the lake) from the W.W. This climb features a bouldery start with a bit of a slab thang at the top.
8 bolts/chains
Layback and Fake it 5.10a find this trad route 5 meters north from SJ & CBC. Layback the massive flake fin (bolt), layback the bulge, lay-away the crux, or just layback and fake it.
small/med gear and a couple of bolts/ chains @top
A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete 5.9+ Ah, those were the days... This short climb is probably the steepest 5.9 in sea2sky. Ascend the bolted arete immediately on your left as you enter the gully, about 30 meters north of 'Layback and...' If your not on a jug your doing it wrong. This fun route is a tricky on-site for the moderate leader.
5 bolts/chains
In the Doghouse 5.7 Stem and palm wildly across the gully on this unique sport climb. It is located about 4 meters up the gully from BLMA.
Probably 5.4 if your a yoga master, probably 5.12 if you can't touch your toes.
5bolts
Sleepin' on the Couch 5.10b Although slightly contrived, this steep route gives a good pump. Climb the 'In the Doghouse' bolt line directly without stemming back. Easy to top rope.
5bolts
More then just a Pretty Face 5.10c A great route.(in my opinion) Located north of the gully to the left of an old mossy route called Fearless Fraser.
Starts in a small corner leading to an undercling flake. Some may wish a small tcu for the top
5 bolts/chains
please go and climb em
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Climbingjunky
- Junior Member
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:51 pm
- Location: Scurvy, British Columbia
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Climbingjunky
- Junior Member
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:51 pm
- Location: Scurvy, British Columbia
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CrackHead Brad
- Casual Observer
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- Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:40 pm
- Location: SQUATAMALIA
Sorry about not getting you the faxed topo as promised. In all honesty though, you probably don't really need one as all the climbs are close together (within 60 meters) if you just take a copy of my previous post with the climbs listed. Never the less, I will find time to fax in a topo.
Have fun climbing them. I'd be interested to hear what people thought of my grading...
Have fun climbing them. I'd be interested to hear what people thought of my grading...
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Climbingjunky
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- Location: Scurvy, British Columbia
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Climbingjunky
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- Posts: 87
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:51 pm
- Location: Scurvy, British Columbia
Checked out those routes last saturday. I'll have to say, I enjoyed them very much. The rock is very textured and the climbs vary quite a bit in holds which is great. Slab is always fun.
A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete 5.9+ was pretty straightforward, big jugs til you get to the top which is a little sketchy. The distance from the last bolt to the anchors is a little long, but not hard. The last few moves are kinda slabby and there's not a alot of handholds, falling at the top would be a little scary, but then again slab always freaks me out! The grade seems fair. You can hike to the top of this route and setup a t/r if u want.
The next one I did was In the Doghouse 5.7 Stem. If you are tall then this climb is quite easy. My gf is 5'4 and she had some difficulty stemming. Although you could do the route without stemming, the grade 10b seems a little high. There are few crimpy moves, if you are short, it will be more difficult. Nevertheless, this is a very fun and unique climb. No chains are the top just 2 bolts for anchors. You can hike to the top of this route and setup a t/r if u want.
More then just a Pretty Face 5.10c was my favourite climb. It's a nice long climb and awesome flakes to grab onto. I found only the moves from the first to the 2nd bolt a little challenging, but after that smooth sailing. 10c felt a little high for myself, felt more like a 10a, in my opinion. Again, some moves are height dependent and this particular climb involved more upper body strenght as some parts are a bit overhanging on the flake section but most of the holds were huge, big shelves. Againm, the moves from the last bolt to the anchors is a little long, as mentioned b4 possible some gear would be good but not neccessary as the holds are pretty positive, just don't fall!
The Whinging Wife 5.10 b/c sketched me out quite a bit. it's probably because I don't climb alot of slab sport routes. From the ground, the route seemed pretty straightforward but as you get to the 3rd clip it seems to get more overhanging and slabby and holds gets more slopey. There are some good crimps, you just have to find them. Some of the moves are bit scary as they involved moving right of the clips and if you fall you take one nasty swing, be careful! The move sfrom the last bolt to anchor is very slabby, trust your feet! This route felt more like 10c/d for me becuase of the sketchyness of the falls and the slabby sections. I found it more challenging than 'More than jsut a pretty face 10c'.
I didn't get a chance to get on Saggy Jugs and Child Bearing Clips 5.10d, I'll that for next time! It was definetly worth going to that area to climb. All the climbs are very close to each other and it's only about a 5 minutes walk from the parking lot. I'd recommend someone to bring a wrench, some of the bolts on A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete 5.9+ were a bit loose. Further north on these walls, there's looks to be a lot of good trad routes and possibly some potential sport climbs? Thanks again for the directions and putting up these routes!
A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete 5.9+ was pretty straightforward, big jugs til you get to the top which is a little sketchy. The distance from the last bolt to the anchors is a little long, but not hard. The last few moves are kinda slabby and there's not a alot of handholds, falling at the top would be a little scary, but then again slab always freaks me out! The grade seems fair. You can hike to the top of this route and setup a t/r if u want.
The next one I did was In the Doghouse 5.7 Stem. If you are tall then this climb is quite easy. My gf is 5'4 and she had some difficulty stemming. Although you could do the route without stemming, the grade 10b seems a little high. There are few crimpy moves, if you are short, it will be more difficult. Nevertheless, this is a very fun and unique climb. No chains are the top just 2 bolts for anchors. You can hike to the top of this route and setup a t/r if u want.
More then just a Pretty Face 5.10c was my favourite climb. It's a nice long climb and awesome flakes to grab onto. I found only the moves from the first to the 2nd bolt a little challenging, but after that smooth sailing. 10c felt a little high for myself, felt more like a 10a, in my opinion. Again, some moves are height dependent and this particular climb involved more upper body strenght as some parts are a bit overhanging on the flake section but most of the holds were huge, big shelves. Againm, the moves from the last bolt to the anchors is a little long, as mentioned b4 possible some gear would be good but not neccessary as the holds are pretty positive, just don't fall!
The Whinging Wife 5.10 b/c sketched me out quite a bit. it's probably because I don't climb alot of slab sport routes. From the ground, the route seemed pretty straightforward but as you get to the 3rd clip it seems to get more overhanging and slabby and holds gets more slopey. There are some good crimps, you just have to find them. Some of the moves are bit scary as they involved moving right of the clips and if you fall you take one nasty swing, be careful! The move sfrom the last bolt to anchor is very slabby, trust your feet! This route felt more like 10c/d for me becuase of the sketchyness of the falls and the slabby sections. I found it more challenging than 'More than jsut a pretty face 10c'.
I didn't get a chance to get on Saggy Jugs and Child Bearing Clips 5.10d, I'll that for next time! It was definetly worth going to that area to climb. All the climbs are very close to each other and it's only about a 5 minutes walk from the parking lot. I'd recommend someone to bring a wrench, some of the bolts on A Bachelors' Life Memorial Arete 5.9+ were a bit loose. Further north on these walls, there's looks to be a lot of good trad routes and possibly some potential sport climbs? Thanks again for the directions and putting up these routes!
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CrackHead Brad
- Casual Observer
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- Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:40 pm
- Location: SQUATAMALIA
Glad to hear you enjoyed them. It makes the hard work and expense worthwhile.
I guess you and I have very different climbing styles because the routes you thought were easier were the routes I had more of a difficult time with. I'm guessing you excel at steeper routes while I (...way to fat) find slabs and technical face climbs easier. On that note, my sport climbing buddy thought the whinging wife was a sandbag while other friends top roped it blindfolded! (no shii t)
As for leaving the last bolt a greater distance to the anchors, thats a charateristic in some great climbs that I really admire. I like when a climb doesn't give you an easy tick but makes you fight right to the anchors...fight or flight, as long as it is steep.
Anyway, thanks for the imput. I got a bunch more routes in development, maybe you could come climb them and help out with some ideas
I guess you and I have very different climbing styles because the routes you thought were easier were the routes I had more of a difficult time with. I'm guessing you excel at steeper routes while I (...way to fat) find slabs and technical face climbs easier. On that note, my sport climbing buddy thought the whinging wife was a sandbag while other friends top roped it blindfolded! (no shii t)
As for leaving the last bolt a greater distance to the anchors, thats a charateristic in some great climbs that I really admire. I like when a climb doesn't give you an easy tick but makes you fight right to the anchors...fight or flight, as long as it is steep.
Anyway, thanks for the imput. I got a bunch more routes in development, maybe you could come climb them and help out with some ideas
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Climbingjunky
- Junior Member
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 9:51 pm
- Location: Scurvy, British Columbia
Re: 7 new routes at Murrin park
Only had time to run up In the Doghouse last weekend. It was a hoot, there is something inherently silly about stemming like that, couldnt stop laughing! Will try the others soon, nice to have a range of easier sport routes at murrin. Thanks.
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Clive kessler
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