Beginner needs advice

[cragmycrag]

Hello all!

Some friends and I have just started climbing (about six months) and are thinking of heading to Squamish this summer. Being a Brit and a beginner I have no idea what the climbing is like in Squamish other than it has an excellent reputation. If I could get some info, it would be really useful come decision time for my climbing destination.

My questions might sound a bit simple, but I really have no idea about what there is in Squamish for beginners:
Are there any bolted routes for lead climbing?
How easy is it to get from one climbing site to another; is a car needed or is there a bus?
Where is the best place to go for 5.09-5.11 (ish) climbing?

Cheers everyone, any advice would be much appreciated.

[MCpl]

Yes. There are bolted (sport) routes in Squamish.

The two areas I'm going to recommend will not require to leave and go somewhere else.... you'll be able to get in a full days worth of climbing. You will, however, need a car to get to these areas.

Best places for sport in the mentioned grades;

Rogues - limited for the 5.9s to 5.10s but great for 5.11s.

Chekamus (aka Chek) - most concentrated sport climbing area in Squamish. See topo available on this website http://www.squamishclimbing.com/topos/Chek.pdf , but refer to the latest Squamish Select guidebook for a comprehensive listing.

[Climbingjunky]

I would also recommend checking out the Smoke Bluffs. There are some easy sport climbs starting 5.7 as well as many easier toprope routes. Like Chek, once you get there, you can basicallys walk to the different areas.

[J Mace]

I used to like rogues but sure seems like its overgrown these days, american heavy, pockets..in fact almost that entire wall is mossy. And the parking as of last weekend looked non existant..

Stay in squamish..you will find tonnes of stuff and you wont need a car...

[cragmycrag]

Thanks everyone. My friends and I were beginning to get worried about the choice of climbs available, but you have put our minds at ease!

[AlexGB]

Although a bit far from Squamish, Nordic crag up in Whistler is worth checking out. Well bolted lines from 5.7 to mid 5.12's. Might be worth a day trip for you guys.

[stick]

get a guide book.... whistler rock climbs has the most sport.

[MCpl]

Whistler Rock Climbs is out dated. Its probably missing about 80 newer sport routes.

[stick]

is there an updated alternative?

[Doc]

You could always try the ever popular Squamish Select. It covers Squamish, Cheakamus, Whistler & Pemberton. It's available at many stores including MEC.

http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Qu ... Titles.htm

[Axel]

I'll start this by saying that I love the climbing in squamish but if you are flying from England to climb SPORT routes in N. America I can think of dozens of places better than here.

If on the other hand you want to practice your granite crack and slab climbing I can't think of any place better.

Granted the sport in this areas has increased in both quantity and quality tremendously over the last few years, a world class SPORT destination it isn't.

I would consider places like RRG in Kentucky, NRG in W. Virginia, El Potrero in Mexico just to name a few. And I would think about going sport climbing in the fall. Being beginners I would recommend the New river Gorge for lots of moderates. If you do come to squamish though bring a trad rack its a great place to practice your gear.

Just my opinion though so take it for what it's worth.