Cream of White Mice

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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catspyjamas
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 2:35 pm

Cream of White Mice

Post by catspyjamas » Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:14 pm

I was climbing Cream of White Mice with a friend and we got to the top of the second pitch and were not sure where to go next. Do you venture out right onto the slab, or do you continue straight up the bolted line on the head wall? The slab appeared to be the proper way, but it looked really difficult (harder then 5.9) and didn't appear to take any gear. Any suggestions.

jefffski
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Post by jefffski » Mon Apr 05, 2004 7:03 pm

go right across the unprotected slab to the gully. yes it is very run out. don't fall.

gearheart
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Posts: 54
Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2004 11:27 am
Location: Valleycliffe

Post by gearheart » Fri Apr 09, 2004 12:54 pm

I managed to place a couple of marginal small cams on that traverse, although they were not much comfort. The climbing on the traverse is good and much easier than it appears - felt easier than 5.9 to me. The gear improves radically once you round the corner, but unfortuntely the climbing is then mediocre and the belay is cramped. Nice route, all in all, but the direct buttress finish (bolted?) which I think follows the dyke is likely a big improvement. Anyone climbed it or know anything about it?

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