NEW TOPO UPDATED AND UPLOADED FOR CHEK

[Climbingjunky]

Sweet!

/starts printing to the office printer

Thanks Gary.

[bike]

Don't forget to change Brock N Roll. That is not a route I built. It's Vic Fisher
Thanks

[MCpl]

Great work Gary.

[76]

that's great.
Thank you Gary

[ras]

Nice looking topo!

Didn't I read a thread that ended with consensus on 12a for Dichotomy at Whiskey Jack? Its 12c in the new topo, and 12b in the last one I printed.

Maybe I made a mistake, and I've only climbed there once... but what I scribbled onto my topo when I was at Whiskey Jack shows two bolted lines between Attitude is Everything (5., and the flagged project to its right. I think that Brock-n-Roll should be moved to the left of the project, not the right, and should be drawn up to an anchor halfway between the anchors on route 7 (Danielle's throne), and the corner system.

What does the rating, 10b, on the project mean? I've never seen a project with a grade that wasn't "5.13?"! Has it been TRed and known to be 10b, and its OK to TR it until (if?) it can be equipped to be led?

Also, its no big deal, letter grade differences depend on the time of month and how much you sleep the night before, but I get the impression there is some interest on getting feedback on grades still, and 5.11 sounds like a warmup for many of you...

I climbed Currently Coagulating and Giddy Up on the same day (Giddy twice, as a warmup and then to put a TR up for someone). CC I felt solid onsighting, not easy, but not worrisome. It took me 5 minutes of up and down-climbing to figure out the start to Giddy. Is it still an onsight if you climb down to the ground 5 times without resting on the rope?

A few friends of mine TRed them both. One couldn't get up the start of Giddy even with 3 folks giving beta (actually, that might not have been helpful), but for her next climb did every move on CC, albeit w/ 3-4 takes. She doesn't usually get up harder than mid 10 outside. Another friend who climbs strong to about mid-10 had a similar experience. It was the 2nd 11a she ever tried outside, and I think she'll RP it (on TR) next time. I guess I'm trying to say I think Giddy may be 10c and CC is not harder than 10d. Both enjoyable. And if Giddy is 10b, then Angle on my Shoulder maybe should go down to 10a.

Unless we were off route on CC. After the start to CC, are you supposed to stay left of the bolt line on the unchalked face? Or can you climb up the chalked holds to the right of the bolts a few feet, then traverse left under the little roof?

And as for Spider Bite and Missing Point... I onsighted Missing a few weeks ago, and later that day couldn't clean the crux of Spider Bite, even after pre-clipping above the crux to work it move by move. End of the day, tired from going up and down Junkyard Patio, probably the wrong sequence, I'm a terrible boulderer, other excuses, etc., but I'll need a much more successful run on Spider to think those climbs are within a few letter grades, much less at the same grade!

Cheers,
Sam

[5.4 Slayer]

Umm, yeah, Giddy-up is way hard for 10b, Currently Coagulating is about 10d, beautiful route but soft at 11a.
Spider bite is about right for me, perhaps a bit stout but it's so damn short.
Missing Pointer seems to have several different starts. If you started way left on the flake then it's probably 10d or so.
As for onsiting, the way I read it is that you can climb up and downclimb all day long so long as you don't tension the rope.

[ras]

[quote="meingh"]Hey Sam,

2) Whiskey Jack i think you are right, Brock and Role needs to be one more to the left making my project #9 and Brock and Role #8. Can anyone else confirm this. Marc F ?????

--> The topo on quickdrawpublications for Whiskey Jack looks more like what I annotated on my topo. If you are allowed to look, check it out.

4) If you down climb is it still an onsight?? I'm not going to bother getting off topic with that one.

-> I was just kidding around, that wasn't really a question, since I'm not submitting my 1000th repeat of Giddy Up for Climbing magazine's Hot Flashes. 8a.nu has an article off its front page about climbers clipping the first 2, 3, or more bolts and calling the route "onsight", if thats the benchmark for style I'm doing really good! p;

5) Basically I wanted to encourage you to continue to post your thoughts on grades, but justify why I am not going to change them, yet.

-> No problem. If consensus is still gathering you have a little more to mix into the pot. Whatever it ends up with is fine by me.

[bike]

G

Check out the topo at quickdraw. It is correct. I don't know where your project fits into the mix?

[RonaldPhillips]

Moving up and down the junkyard patios?? That's boring. Anyways, a great collection of topos in that list. Nice work Gary!