ATROCITIES AT THE KACODEMON
ATROCITIES AT THE KACODEMON
Well, I was in the forest for the fisrt time in a while today and walked around the back of the kacodemon. Now, come on. What the f**k is going on? To the right of Permenant Waves are two new 'routes in progress'. The mess on the left has, in between its drilled and chipped holds a bunch of bolt on holds. The f**k up on the right is entirely manufactured with a drill and cold chisel. Now, I vaguely remember there being chipped holds around this area but disregarded them as relics of pasts ills. I'm calling for a concensus of derision to this activity- i'm calling the locals on it. If this were my local crag, a place I had invested my soul, I would be up there with the tools to strip this sh*t. As i am not a local, i want to now what's going on and why no one's stepped up to strip these 'routes'. I'm calling the guide book writers- Kevin McLane and Marc Bourdon on it. Who is condoning this stuff? Why is no one complaining on this forum? I mean, i'm practically lost for words- this is.... WHAT? WHAT? If these 'routes' remain, I'll be building a brick wall just next to them, so I can bang my head on it. If these things remain, Squamish should be fully and justifiably ridiculed in the climbing press. I'm saddened and disgusted- stewart.
Maybe i'm tripping hard on the wrong drugs- but i'd swear there was no where near that many drilled holds, especially on the one on the right. in fact, i'm just about bloody sure. anyroad- having fun? if it's okay to do it on a boulder, why not go nuts and render the blank parts of the chief colourful with plastic holds. fun, is over emphasied as justification sometimes- heh dude, i did an ffa on the kacodemon, the move off the pusher sloper to the rad two finger drilled pocket is rad- if there's to be any opinion left from a sea of idle morons, i say the people who did this need a kick in the a$%. it makes me embarrased for them.
Well Stewart, until you know for sure that there are actually new drill/chipped holds... tone down your opinion. You're comming across with a full head of steam and it may all be for nothing. What if you're wrong and there isn't new chipped holds? Its going to be hard taking that foot out off your mouth then wouldn't it?
As for bolting on a couple of plastic holds.... who cares? The damage (which are the embeded nuts) was done a long time ago. The holds can be taken off. Your over emphasis seems to be your justification that we need to all mobilize and ally ourselves with your cause. Just like how you don't want to see holds on natural rock messin up your beloved scenery, I don't want you spraying your charged languaged all over this forum where I have to read it.
If you really feel so strongly about how the Kacodemon boulder looks like why don't you get up on top of it and remove the pipes that were placed to divert water away from the chipped routes. At the end of day, you're just a complainer because you can be. I call that being a cry baby.
As for bolting on a couple of plastic holds.... who cares? The damage (which are the embeded nuts) was done a long time ago. The holds can be taken off. Your over emphasis seems to be your justification that we need to all mobilize and ally ourselves with your cause. Just like how you don't want to see holds on natural rock messin up your beloved scenery, I don't want you spraying your charged languaged all over this forum where I have to read it.
If you really feel so strongly about how the Kacodemon boulder looks like why don't you get up on top of it and remove the pipes that were placed to divert water away from the chipped routes. At the end of day, you're just a complainer because you can be. I call that being a cry baby.
all right you bunch of girls, i've had two pints now and i'm not backing down- if you condone this lot, then all power to you. like i said, i'm pretty bloody sure- but i might be wrong- i don't recall the one on the right having that many drilled holds. and what's this complaing cry baby sh*t? if i'm wrong about the whole thing, then great, no worries. there's no foot in my mouth, sonny. that's why my name is up on the site. sounds like the locals are getting defensive. if i'm wrong then y'all can have a huddled laugh about the gobby wanker with the opinions. like i said, i'm not a local. if that's the way you like it in squamish, it's just not my place to disrupt.
actually, what? what was that? you don't want me spraying my charged language over this web site where you have to read it? oh, wait, i'm sorry. i didn't mean to offend you. here's a picture of my parsons nose instead... (two pints and a whisky) looks like everyone's gone to bed... mobilize people, the mediocrity constable is at our door to enforce the law.
s lee hughes.
s lee hughes.
I walked by the back of the kacodemon yesterday. The bright pastel color holds definatly made me take a longer look than usual. I for one didn't see anything new at all for new chipped holds. And i don't think you could put any more nuts on that patch of rock anyways. I guess what i'm saying is that I don't really see any real new issue with the back of the kacodemon. Well..except for the bright ugly holds. Perhaps though, you might as well use it for something?
So feel free to strip everything and fill every last little hole, but untill then i suppose were all just complaining about it.
So feel free to strip everything and fill every last little hole, but untill then i suppose were all just complaining about it.
Hey Stewart, if you look at your post, you basically fly off the handle. You think that just becasue we aren't rallying along with you on this, you think we are against you. Its like, "If you're not with me, you're against me" attitude.
You can tell from your post that you don't read people's entire response before posting a reply. Everything you are trying to advocate has some sort of emotional attachment. Maybe you ought to name call yourself "girl" instead of trying talk down to everyone (inclusive of the people you think are chipping/attaching plastic to rock in Squamish).
You assume a lot, like we (the peopl that have replied) as locals. You think that we advocate chipping. You assume that allowing the activities on the Kac will lead to the same attrocities on the Grand Wall or other areas. All that is charged languaged. Someone who doesn't know any better might blindly rally behind you and blow this whole thing out of proportion. Basically, report the facts... I can make up my own mind on how to feel about any new, if any, chipped holds or bolted on plastic ones on the Kac.
You can tell from your post that you don't read people's entire response before posting a reply. Everything you are trying to advocate has some sort of emotional attachment. Maybe you ought to name call yourself "girl" instead of trying talk down to everyone (inclusive of the people you think are chipping/attaching plastic to rock in Squamish).
You assume a lot, like we (the peopl that have replied) as locals. You think that we advocate chipping. You assume that allowing the activities on the Kac will lead to the same attrocities on the Grand Wall or other areas. All that is charged languaged. Someone who doesn't know any better might blindly rally behind you and blow this whole thing out of proportion. Basically, report the facts... I can make up my own mind on how to feel about any new, if any, chipped holds or bolted on plastic ones on the Kac.
to me the holes on the back of CACODEMON ROCK are a sign of the past, like rivets where there are perfect head placements. These are things that happened before we knew better, and we have evolved.
I would agree that leaving holds on that wall although not that different then fix lines is a bit weird just given the nature. HAVEN"T THEY HAD ENOUGH OF PLASTIC AND THAT IS WHY THEY ARE OUTSIDE"
But I myself over the last couple of winters (in the light rain) have taken to mix climbing on those holes as for practice. Its a great workout as well as scarry fun
It was a mistake to destroy the rock like that but to cover it all up is like hiding part of our heritage. I do believe that the wall was used as a
training wall for the canadian national climbing team, which just shows the resourcefulness of the diehard climber, full on dirtbagging.
I would agree that leaving holds on that wall although not that different then fix lines is a bit weird just given the nature. HAVEN"T THEY HAD ENOUGH OF PLASTIC AND THAT IS WHY THEY ARE OUTSIDE"
But I myself over the last couple of winters (in the light rain) have taken to mix climbing on those holes as for practice. Its a great workout as well as scarry fun
It was a mistake to destroy the rock like that but to cover it all up is like hiding part of our heritage. I do believe that the wall was used as a
training wall for the canadian national climbing team, which just shows the resourcefulness of the diehard climber, full on dirtbagging.
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