Forgotten Wall grades

[dakine]

best? rug munchers and Creeping right, RM is fun and has a nice feel to it
creeeping right as it is very different than most of the routes and it makes you think

[Clive kessler]

Mcpol look in this thread... monkeyboy said he thought it was 11b

[mr_staggerlee]

The biggest sandbag for me so far has been Crawling Right......definitely harder than Creepy Crawlers......mostly because it's less obvious.

Most routes (so far) seem pretty fairly graded.

Here's the Bosch......excellent at 11b.......but what's with the "let's stretch 5 feet to the left to clip the bolt" stuff?? Or was I perhaps off route?

G.

[MCpl]

Monkeyboy may have said that on here but he bolted it and also practically painted ticks all over the thing for the FA.

[mr_staggerlee]

Q: Why the "R" rating on MEC? bad falls? If 12a is my red point limit are there better ones to spend time on first?

Curious, since it seems to have been labelled "soft".

G.

[Clive kessler]

The grade in the new squamish guide (by marc B) is 11 c. Apparently he found some rests up top around the corner, which no one else used. Still it was always soft for the grade. Yes it is a little runout. Don't fall between 2 and 3 bolt... And hope that no holds breaks.

However, if your belayer is on the ball you should be fine.

[5.4 Slayer]

It's rated 12a R (runout). Mike gave it the 12a rating to be on the safe side because the runout is between the second and third bolts. I thought the best part of the climb was the climbing to the third bolt with the runout not a factor as there are jugs from the second to third bolt.

[5.4 Slayer]

Hey Clive, Marc's got a new guidebook out???? Can I pick it up at MEC?

[Clive kessler]

Sorry the book is not out yet... Try within a the next month, Its going to be another squamish select.

[Peter]

I believe Rug Munchers also got 11d in the new book as well.

[5.4 Slayer]

Peter, do you know what From Beneath You It Devours is going to be rated in the new guide? I sent it today (way different sequence than the FA's) and was thinking 12a?

[Peter]

I think 12c, but not sure.

[5.4 Slayer]

Oh yeah, I forgot.

[MCpl]

Sorry for being away for so long.

As for MEC.... the reason for the R was to have people actually pay attention while belaying on that route. I belayed Clive K on that after he had the FA and was not testing the fall/decking potential. At the apex of the most runout part between the 2nd and 3rd bolt he took a fall and he didn't even reach me. He out weighs me by 70lbs. I did get pulled up quite a bit but there really is no danger when the belayer is paying attention. The only time one ought to be concern is while clipping the 3rd of a mega jug.

As a result, I think the R has been removed for the new guidebook.