Access News

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Peter
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Access News

Post by Peter » Sat Jun 04, 2005 8:34 pm

CLIMBERS' ACCESS SOCIETY OF B.C.

ACCESS NEWS - JUNE 4th, 2005

SQUAMISH ROC TRIP 2005: June 24th - 26th

The Squamish Roc Trip 2005 is in only three weeks. A big community building event, competition, and fundraiser. Some of the best rock climbers in the world will be there. The event’s lead sponsors are Petzl and Arc’Teryx, and apart from all the fun there will be substantial benefits to the climbing community. All the income from the Roc Trip (competitions, social events, clinics) will be divided between The Land Conservancy of B.C., to support its work on key land acquisitions in the Squamish area, and the Access Society. (Corrected dates below.)

Complete information about all Roc Trip events, and registration, is at www.petzl.com - click on "sport". Registration is limited, so sign up early!

The Roc Trip will include lots of fun and activities, for everyone:


Friday (June 24th)

Volunteer clean-up and trail work day (Stawamus Chief). Limit 100 participants. Free burger & beer for helpers, at the Brew Pub after!
Trade fair at Squamish Station, including dyno competition.
Portable climbing wall at Squamish Station.
Registration.
Opening events, including slide show by Scott Milton and Fred Nicole (Brew Pub).

Saturday (June 25th)

Invitational sport climbing competition at the Grand Wall boulders (Stawamus Chief), and the Big Show (Conroy Creek FSR, Cheakamus Canyon), featuring more than 20 of the best rock athletes from Canada, the U.S. and Europe.
Open sport climbing competition, also at Cheak (limit 100 competitors).
Portable climbing wall at Squamish Station.
Technique clinics.
Timmy O'Neill show (Brennan Park Leisure Centre).
Huge evening party (Sun Wolf Centre).
Sunday (June 26th)

Elite bouldering competition, Grand Wall boulders, featuring unclimbed problems.
Open bouldering competition, Grand Wall boulders - limit 300 competitors.
Portable climbing wall at Squamish Station.
Technique clinics.
Post-event party and awards (Brew Pub).
Other sponsors include Prana, EntrePrise, Climbing, New England Ropes, La Sportiva, Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company (Brew Pub), Mountain Equipment Co-op, Valhalla Pure Outfitters (Squamish), the Ministries of Forests and of Water, Land & Air Protection, District of Squamish, Climb On, Squamish Rock Guides, the Edge Climbing Centre, On Sight Equipment, and more. Thanks also to Don and Fred Behrner!



Roc Trip Volunteers Needed!

We need lots of volunteers to help make the Roc Trip an event all climbers, and Squamish, can be proud of. It'll be a lot of fun, and some volunteer recognition is planned. Contact squamish(at)access-society.ca, or call (604) 228-1798 if you can help. There'll be volunteer orientation meetings in Squamish (June 15th) and Vancouver (June 16th) for everyone who can attend either - let us know, and we'll send more information.



ADOPT-A-CRAGS 2005



So far the Access Society has held four volunteer crag stewardship events in 2005:

Nanaimo (March 19th): 5 volunteers.
Stawamus Chief – Grand Wall Boulders (April 23rd): 22 volunteers.
Skaha (April 27th & May 19th): 27 volunteers.
Eldred River, Powell River (May 7th & 8th): 21 volunteers.
Upcoming events:
Smoke Bluffs (June 5th): The Edge Junior Team.
Fleming Beach, Victoria (June).
Cougar Canyon, Vernon (June).
Crest Creek Crags, Campbell River (June 18th – July 3rd).
Stawamus Chief (June 24th).
Conroy Creek FSR, Cheakamus Canyon (June 24th, summer).
Squamish area (September 11th).
Nanaimo area (autumn).
These events are a great way to demonstrate responsibility for the cliffs and mountains we cherish. Trail work, building and maintaining toilets, cleanup, and other necessary projects. And fun!

For more on each event, including contact information, see the website. Mountain Equipment Co-op's Environment Fund has given the Access Society a grant to cover expenses for organizing these events, but other support, e.g. draw prizes, very welcome.

If you want to organize an Adopt-a-Crag in your area, please let us know – info(at)access-society.ca. We'll help with planning, publicity, draw prizes, funding, and other resources. Thanks to all the organizers and volunteers!

Adopt-a-Crag is an initiative of the Access Fund, sponsored by Recreational Equipment Co-op, W. L. Gore, and Clif Bar. In 2004 it involved over 100 volunteer stewardship events at cliffs and mountains around the United States, and one in Canada. The name "Adopt-a-Crag" refers to events that are part of this program in September each year; by courtesy of the Access Fund, we use the name for other events.


STAWAMUS CHIEF - PEREGRINE FALCONS

The 2005 peregrine falcon nesting closures are similar to those in past years, and include all routes from Negro Lesbian to Freeway, from four pitches above the ground to the top. Negro Lesbian is included; Freeway for now remains open, although it may be necessary to close it also. We'll publish an update as soon as any new information is available.

The 2005 closure is until July 31st. Closed routes include Clean Corner, Sports Illustrated, Cloudburst, Sea of Tranquillity, Getting Down in the Brown, Warriors of the Wasteland, Western Dihedral (4th pitch & above), Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Duck, Illusion, Planet Caravan, and Millenium Falcon. Open climbs include Arrowroute, Cleaning the Brain, Dead End Dihedral, Time Passages, Black Dyke, Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch), Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Dyke, and Freeway.

MISCELLANEOUS

1. Thank Yous
Recent donations: Perry Beckham, Eamonn Deegan, David Clendenan, Paul Rydeen, Kelly Franz, Wendy Holmes, Stephen Wellington, Dale Mernett, Nicolette Honson, Meghan Jones, Anne-Marie Comte & Douglas Pulleyblank.

Graphics & Brochure Project: Todd Belcher, Kirsten Hall, Phil Hollman, Stephanie Seaton, and others.

Draw Prizes: Metolius Mountain Products, Mountain Equipment Co-op, Arc'Teryx, Valhalla Pure Outfitters (Squamish), Climb On, Flashed, Gripped Magazine, Romper Room, Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival, and others. (Additional draw prizes welcome - we have a lot of volunteers, and it's a nice way to recognize their efforts.)

2. Cougar Canyon (Vernon)
The old parking area, which had become a party spot for local youth, was closed at the recommendation of local climbers. There is now ungraded parking under the Hydro right of way, about 400 metres back from the trailhead. B.C. Parks is assessing the need for more formal parking arrangements, and installed a counter on the trail, to get a more accurate picture on the number of users.

B.C. Parks has also donated a toilet, which has been refurbished by Vernon climbers. Local climbers are digging the pit, and B.C. Parks is flying the toilet into Cougar Canyon in early June, when it will be erected. Climbers are also building a notice board, with support from the Access Society, to be erected at trail head. It will inform users of access and environmental issues in the area, processes that are under way that may affect access, and the new outhouse.

For more on Cougar Canyon, contact Lyle Knight at llknight(at)shaw.ca or (250) 545-8855.



3. Cheakamus Canyon (The Gorge)
Construction on the Culliton-Cheakamus section damaged many climbs in the Gorge (Cheakamus Canyon), and access routes in the area. This includes climbs on Galaxy Buttress (StarChek), Gotham City, and Leaning Tower of Pizza. Ministry of Transportation contractors have done a lot of rehabilitation work, particularly on access trails and loose rock. The work, including signage, should be finished fairly soon. The area remains posted as closed, and approaches and climbs there should be considered quite hazardous until they are posted otherwise.

4. Website, Graphics & Promotions

The Access Society has a new "point of purchase" display - something that sits nicely on counters or can hang on a wall, and holds brochures. We also have a new brochure.
Please contact us if your store, gym or club has a home for some of our new brochures, and/or room for a display to hold them. We'd like to get them in every climbing-related store and gym in B.C.
Thanks to Kurt Werby (www.altitudeimages.com) and Rich Wheater (www.richwheater.com) for donating many images for the graphics project, and for helping with production. Thanks also to Ian Bateson of Baseline Type & Graphics Co-op (www.baseline-graphics.com) and Corina Acheson of Hemlock Printers (www.hemlock.com) for their help.
5. Promotion - The Edge Climbing Centre
The Access Society held a very successful spring fundraiser and membership drive at the Edge Climbing Centre on Saturday May 14th. Thank you to everyone who attended, made a donation, bought a raffle ticket, or joined! 29 members joined, six renewed, and we raised almost $1,500. The Access Society now has 339 members, a new high!

Special thanks to the Edge Climbing Centre (Henry Wang & Andrew Wilson), Arc'Teryx and Petzl (raffle prizes), and Sean Draper (poster).

Prize winners: Robyn Young, Paul Morton, Jenny Mah, Kevin Greenwood, Jeff Thomson, David Marfin, Martin Spedding, Steven Harng, Don Phillips, Bryan Forrest, Matthew Wellington, Claudia Raffi, Michelle Manske, Dave Morriss, Devin Goodsman, Tim Watts. Contact the Edge at (604) 984-9080 or henry(at)edgeclimbing.com to claim prizes.

6. Community Climbing Gym - Victoria
The 13 year old Boulders Climbing Gym at Stellys High School in Victoria has made a significant difference to many youths, but needs to expand to keep up with demand. It is a unique facility, and takes on unusual activities, such as courses for special needs students, and rehabilitation programs. The gym recently received grants from both provincial and federal governments to expand, but this only covers 2/3 of the cost. The not-for-profit society that runs the gym needs a further $67,000 to finish the project. Donors will receive a charitable tax receipt, and great recognition opportunities are available. For more information, or to make a donation, contact Kimanda Jarzebiak at kimanda(at)ascentgr.com or (250) 920-5900.

7. Conroy Creek - Cheak
The Access Society has been awarded grants from the Alpine Club of Canada (national Environment Fund) and the Alpine Club of Canada (Vancouver section Endowment Fund) toward building an outhouse at Conroy Creek. The Ministry of Forests is open to the idea, and indeed suggests a recreation site (toilet, small camping area, notice board) at a suitable location in the area. One possible location is just off the current parking area, about 800 metres from Highway 99. We've done some preliminary assessment, and hope to do a bit of trail work and clean up as part of the Roc Trip volunteer day, but won't begin work on this project after the Roc Trip.

8. Access Society - 10th Anniversary
The Access Society was founded in April 1995, at an all-climbers meeting in Penticton. In our ten years we've had some successes, but face many challenges in our pursuit of public access to B.C.'s cliffs and mountains, and conservation of them. We need more donors, members, volunteers, and support. Please support us in any way you can - become a member, make a donation, or volunteer!

We believe the Access Society doing an important job. It represents all those who cherish B.C.’s cliffs and mountains. We need your support to continue with and expand our efforts. See www.access-society.ca, under “Get Involved”, for more.

We hope this message is useful, and encourage you to share, post and forward it. Our apologies if it is unwanted! If so, please let us know and we'll remove you from our list. If your e-mail has changed, please let us know. (In a few cases this message is a duplicate, due to overlapping directories.) Also, we welcome information and contributions to Access News - please send to info(at)access-society.ca.

copyright (c) Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia, 2005.

Box 72013 - Sasamat R.P.O.
Vancouver, B.C.
Canada V6R 4P2
(604) 228-1798

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