Starvation Lake Crag

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mcfly
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Starvation Lake Crag

Post by mcfly » Sun Nov 29, 2015 11:41 am

[img]https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmmmjn2vl4290 ... o.jpg?dl=0[/img]

How do I post a JPEG of my topo???
If somebody could repost and insert the above image, that would be great.

We started a family crag project last winter but have since moved to Powell River. There were plans for another 10+ routes with some minor trundling, scrubbing and pruning completed and a couple anchors already installed - hopefully somebody else will get motivated to work on more routes in this area. Please let me know if you want more info regarding the unfinished routes.

The above topo covers the 10 routes that we have completed and climbed. Note that some of the routes (or variations of) had been previously climbed in the 60's and 70's. Some old pitons were removed and not replaced and some old bolts were also removed and/or replaced with new hardware.

This area dries very quickly and we have climbed there just days after heavy rain in every month of the year. The cliff faces South and the views from the top of the routes are great. Each route ends at a nice ledge (no hanging belays) but please note that 2 RAPPELLS ARE REQUIRED TO GET BACK TO THE GROUND FROM MOST OF THE ROUTES. Use caution! A significant amount of trundling was done but some loose rocks and flakes may still exist - wear a helmet. Many of the routes are a bit runout on the easier sections though a few small/medium size cams and nuts will help reduce runouts in some areas. The base of the cliff is relatively flat and safe for kids and dogs...

Enjoy!

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gnarnaphobe
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Re: Starvation Lake Crag

Post by gnarnaphobe » Mon Nov 30, 2015 8:14 am

Outstanding work!
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

mcfly
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Re: Starvation Lake Crag

Post by mcfly » Wed Dec 02, 2015 8:57 am

Thanks Bearbreeder!

staven
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Re: Starvation Lake Crag

Post by staven » Sat Dec 12, 2015 9:12 pm

I climbed here last summer and it's a great sunny spot with a shady base. Fun long routes with a sporty feel on interesting reddish rock that is quite different from the typical granite you find in the rest of Squamish.

Finding the way down from the hwy pullout to the Sea to Sky Tail is a bit tricky, but the Sea to Sky trail is a beauty walk with great views of the Cheakamus canyon. This crag does indeed dry very fast.

Thanks for all the hard work, sorry you couldn't stick around to tick the rest of the lines.

serac
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Re: Starvation Lake Crag

Post by serac » Sat Mar 19, 2016 9:37 am

The easy access for the north end is now blocked with concrete barriers and there is no parking there. We accessed it from the yellow gate just north of the big orange bridge and it took about 50 mins to get to the crag. Driving up to the end of paradise valley and using the that entrance would probably drop it to 30 or 40 mins. It is the sea to sky mountain bike trail so that is always an option.

Very nice little crag for the day. Dry as a bone when a lot of stuff in Squamish was a little weepy. Lots of sun, the trees don't have leaves so even the belays were sunny. Replaced the tat around the tree on top of poop shoes. Amazing views.
Last one dead's a sissy

mcfly
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Re: Starvation Lake Crag

Post by mcfly » Sun Mar 20, 2016 3:22 pm

Glad you enjoyed the crag!
There is an alternate (shorter) access that we used during most of our time out there:
Park at the next pullout South of the one that was blocked off (first pullout on the left after passing by Conroy Creek FSR). Walk approximately 150m South along the edge of the highway until a faint trail heads down through the forest - follow for 2 mins until you reach the Sea To Sky Trail then follow STS Trail South for 20mins to the crag. Hopefully our shortcut trail is still visible... This access point cuts about 10mins off the approach.
You can also park at that same pullout to the South and then scramble straight down the boulders to an older version of the STS trail and follow it for 1 minute to the STS trail (a bit more difficult for kids which is why we made the shortcut trail).
Enjoy!

johntennant
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Re: Starvation Lake Crag

Post by johntennant » Sun May 01, 2016 9:57 am

We climbed here yesterday. No one else was there and we had a beautiful day. Great crag! Thanks for posting...

We climbed #2, #8, and #9. The bolting was sensibly spaced considering the climbing and position of the crag. #9 was our favorite line by far--almost plumb with great rock and nice and long.

A note on Access: We parked at the same pull-out that is used for climbing Star Chek, walked south along the highway and then onto the Sea-to-Sky trail (starts shortly past the top-out of Star Chek). The sign marking the entry into the Sea-to-Sky trail is obscured by brush--but it's pretty easy to spot nonetheless. About 15-20mins down the trail there is an obvious footpath heading east and the crag is quite easy to spot from the gravel trail. About 25 mins total from the car.

Thanks again.

natsdad
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Re: Starvation Lake Crag

Post by natsdad » Mon Apr 01, 2019 10:33 am

Hello:

Climbed this crag for the second time this weekend (first time was last fall). Rock was dry. There were no other climbers. Views to the Tantalus range are amazing. No highway noise - but you can hear the Chek river raging below.

We parked at the "official" highway 99 picnic area - - north of the Star Chek rappel area (just minutes downhill on the left if you are heading north) and walked back up the highway (there is a trail outside of the guard barriers). When you get to the flagged area marking Star Chek top out (about 5 minutes of hiking), continue south and in a few seconds, you'll see the sign for the Sea-To-Sky biking/hiking trail. From there it is another 20 minutes on the good, gravel trail, mostly downhill (with a bit of uphill, too) until you arrive at the crag, which will be on your left.

Also note: the "mixed" climbs really do require gear to protect them. I placed up to a #3 camalot, but wired nuts fit really well into the cracks on this cliff - often I couldn't place cams due to lack of parallel sides. And while the cliff is too high to rappel straight to the ground from the very top (with one rope), you can rap in two goes with one 60m rope, making a slightly diagonal rap to a couple of mid-stations that are equipped with rap anchors, and then a second rappel to the ground.

cheers,
natsdad

Shilden_72
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Re: Starvation Lake Crag

Post by Shilden_72 » Tue Oct 22, 2019 8:24 am

I take it that it's better to go there in spring? I'm planning a hiking/climbing trip in British Columbia for May 2020, so I'd like to make sure to pick the best spots as you don't get to travel to another continent every two weeks.

natsdad
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Re: Starvation Lake Crag

Post by natsdad » Fri Oct 25, 2019 8:54 am

Hi,

How long are you planning for your visit to BC? If very short (like a week or less), I'd recommend the summer - late July or early August for the best chances of good weather.

If longer, than the spring can be a great time to climb - - but can also be wet (very hard to predict). And the Starvation Lake Crag is great in Spring, Summer and Fall, as it faces south and dries quickly.

cheers,
Steve

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