Easy 5.10?

[islander]

I'm looking for some suggestions in Squamish for easy 5.10a/b climbs to help break my mental barrier and climb a bit harder. I found Nubile Woman in the bluffs read "10a, soft for the grade". The Zip I found hard, maybe because it's more vertical...

What are some other suggestions?

[natsdad]

Hi,
Are you looking for gear leads or sport? For gear, I find Split Decision at Shannon Falls, a soft 5.10A (and so is EPB, if you don't mind the lineups involved with pitches 1 & 2 of Skywalker). Out to Lunge (bluffs), Flying Circus (bluffs) and Fist (Murrin) also come to mind as being soft for their grades.

For Sport: Zoe (murrin), Happy Day (Murrin - there are also a bunch of well bolted 5.9's there at Woodstock) come to mind...probably more like this at Area 44.

cheers,
Nats_dad

[MarkR]

Yeah, I agree with the above. Easiest crack 10s I know of are Out to Lunge, Nubile Woman and Split Decision. The 10a crack on Hairpin is pretty soft, but that might be offset by the hard 5.9 that follows. Jabberwocky is soft too, but the V0 entry problem can stump the short.

There's a great thread on 5.10 testpieces when you're more comfortable: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3335&hilit=Testpieces

[islander]

Yes to clarify I meant trad. I will check out those ones mentioned.
Any further that are a notch above the ones already listed?
Thanks!

[islander]

Did Split Decision and felt it was okay with just 1-2 moves that were interesting for the grade

I didn't do hairpin because I don't feel up for the 10a slab pitch

Any other suggestions? I'm definitely not a 10a leader, but I don't know when I will be either...

I added the 1st pitch of exasperator to my list as well

[pixel]

On top of what other people have suggested, here are some more climbs that I've found to be good confidence builders in 5.10 leading:
- Erica at Lumberland
- 10b just left of Eat, Sleep, Dance, Repeat at Free and Easy -- don't know what it's called
- Hungry, Hungry Hippos at the Commonwealth Wall (bring a small cam)
- Gang of Foreplay at Island in the Sky (it's very short, has bomber protection, and has good rests)