New Route at Forgotten Wall

[Squamishmonkey]

New route at forgotten wall.

5.12d, "Moments of Magnetism"
Sport, approx. 20m.

Located to the right of Just Can't do It, left of the Reach-around.
Two distinct cruxes with a hands free rest in-between and 5.11+ face climbing to finish.

A technical and sequencial traverse on good holds solves the blank looking middle section.

Grade is un-confirmed

[robby]

Great addition to forgotten wall Eric. Really cool sequences. People will enjoy working this one.

[highlinestu]

Climbed this route yesterday very very fun, don't blow the 6th climb or your garrented to pendulum into a ledge. I would give a grade of 5.12b no move is harder then the crux of the "reach around" 12b to the right of this route. Quality get on it

[enchanted]

[Squamishmonkey]

Good to hear people are trying it. Glad you liked it.
The consensus seems to be 12b/c.

I placed the 5th bolt as high and left as I could so that if you fall at the sixth you miss the ledge (If your belayer is paying attention!) I tested this a few times to make sure and it's a clean fall. If you fall while clipping (Slack in your hand) you will clip the ledge, but that is the case in many spots around Squamish. The sixth bolt was placed by the best hold across the traverse to minimize the chance of this happening!