Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich

[Optimally-Primed]

Escape Velocity, 5.9, 7p on the NW Face of Mt. Habrich

Download Topo (grades unconfirmed)

The route climbs 7 pitches directly to the summit of Habrich. Aesthetic, positive climbing on good quality stone. While the route does involve a little easy walking up heather slopes, no bush is involved in the route. All stations are fixed with rap chains. A single rope and smallish rack (see topo) is sufficient.

Access is ever-changing. For this year, drive to the gate on the Shannon Creek FSR, park, and walk up the road to the Shannon Creek spur. Turn left onto the spur (bush has been cleared) to a small campground. Turn left and grind uphill for 600m to the left (NW) col of Habrich, where the climb begins. (Next year, the gondola and a trail along the ridge W of Habrich will change this.) 2.5h up.

Some of the route may have been climbed before. Our goal was merely to develop an inviting climb by incorporating the best rock climbing available.

[geoffgeorges]

We were up 0n the Bulletheads and contemplating the gondola ride. Checked the cost- $36 RT, and $10 for downhill only. Trails developed too. Have you tried this yet? Could one hike from the Chief, and then get on those Habrich trails? I would like to explore Habrich, but that closed road, and Gondola price scare me off.

[Drew]

Trails developed too. Have you tried this yet? Could one hike from the Chief, and then get on those Habrich trails?

Sky Pilot, 4 hrs round trip from gondola:
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.a ... C_ID=61583

Habrich ridge trail to Habrich and return to gondola, 4 hrs
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.a ... C_ID=61643

Also, the MCR from June 3. 40 minutes from the gondola to base of the climbs on Habrich:

http://www.acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp

[Optimally-Primed]

Access Update. (Just back from the Peg)

The best access from the gondola is via Shannon Creek and the steep slog directly to the base. It takes about 2 hours. The trail up Shannon Creek has been brushed out and is downright pleasant to walk. The steep trail up is improving. Yesterday, Matt Parker and I brushed out the lowest section, and diverted the trail around the crumbling kitty litter section. The middle and upper sections are improving with usage. Bring mountain boots and use your edges to help improve the trail more. Just below the col (base of the route), the trail could use a little brushing out (branches). A small handsaw and 30-60 minutes would do the trick. A short fixed rope up a small bluff exiting the creek (2/3 the way up would be nice too.

Al's Habrich Trail also reaches the base. But I highly recommend NOT taking this route. It takes 4.5h of steady travel. It involves a lot of up and down. It is very steep in places. And it is super bushy for a good deal of the way. I do say---in no uncertain terms---do not use Al's Habrich Trail to approach Habrich.

[hans]

FYI we used the Habrich ridge trail and by the time we got to Mt Habrich we were VERY tired. It took us almost 5 hours. Nice hike though.

There were several parties on Escape Velocity, so we simulclimbed up the regular route and it only took about 20 minutes. Opinions of Escape Velocity from other climbers were that it wasn't that great, but it did seem nicer than the regular route.

The views from the top were amazing.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hansbauck/14382473748/

[Optimally-Primed]

Let's hear from people who actually climbed Escape Velocity. What did you think of the route?

[Doug Bruce]

Looks like fun. I'll put it down as a possibility for my next trip to Squamish. With the hike in and out it would make a good day out for an old fart like me!
Is a four wheel drive vehicle required to get to the start of the Shannon Creek track you've cut?

[Optimally-Primed]

Last week, some friends and I improved the final bit of the trail to the col (base of the route). The trail is in good shape now. Plenty of parties out on the climb (4 on a weekday).

Doug, access is via the gondola. The gondola owners improved the Shannon Creek FSR approach trail.

[Peter]

I don't generally comment on quality etc regarding new routes. However, Jeremy is asking so I'll way in with our opinion. We did it this weekend b/c we got skunked on Life on Earth (too many parties). There were four of us and we all thought it was mostly heather ledges and very little rock climbing. I haven't done any of the other routes so can't compare, but the actual climbing wasn't that great: very short pitches, some good rock, some not. Having said that, the route as a whole is at most, 5.7. so if you want to explore the "alpine" for the first time and just want to summit Habrich then this might be a reasonable option.

[tobyfk]

Did this thing today. Nothing special about the climbing but I liked that it finished right at the summit. As you would expect from Mr Frimer it is well thought out and would be very doable for, say, a mom/ dad plus kids team. Trail could do with some more work IMO but perhaps I am too fussy.

[pbeckham]

Climbed Escape Velocity with Donini today.
2nd pitch was wet, scruffy and loose which is too bad because it's the only real pitch on the route.
Everything else fights hard to avoid class 2 hiking on heather and the route is only somewhat defined by bolts often placed in strange places.
This isn't a moderate route on superb alpine rock.
On the positive side, nice rap route.
Given my druthers, I'd like to see how much the original route could be improved with some vegetation management and a few cairns as I'll probably take way less gear and go that way next time.

PB

[marc_leclerc]

Hey Geoffgeorges, I hike up to the top of the gondola somewhat frequently via the Sea to Summit trail and it is a nice easy way to get up there. There is a lot of easy flat-ish walking with a few steeper uphill sections, but overall pretty mellow. Give yourself a couple hours with a pack full of climbing gear.

[islander]

What's the current condition of the route this year?

[dray2009]

Climbed it yesterday (July 29) and is in great condition. Easy fun intro to some Alpine near the big city. All station's bolted. Short pitches, so keep an eye out for the stations. All good. Nothing bad to say about it. Great route for beginners or for taking out your less experienced buddies and/or for anybody to check out the amazing summit.

[islander]

Climbed it yesterday (July 29) and is in great condition. Easy fun intro to some Alpine near the big city. All station's bolted. Short pitches, so keep an eye out for the stations. All good. Nothing bad to say about it. Great route for beginners or for taking out your less experienced buddies and/or for anybody to check out the amazing summit.

I climbed it recently and I would say this info is spot on. The view from the summit is worth the approach.