Mushy Peas Left of Opal

[SGB]

Got on this route today and friends were on it the day before
The first two pitches are a bit dirty but the route is essentially dry.
The book gives it 2 stars but we all feel it is at least 3 stars with the quality of the pitches above

It has amazing hand jamming with some overhanging cracks. Some wide stuff but easily climable using holds outside the wyde...
Bring a #4 and #6

The 11d slab above is easier than the feather traverse and is well bolted. Could aid sections if needed

If you can climb 11a, get on it. More traffic would help

[jerblumel]

I concur. With some overhung reds and golds a la the Rostrum in Yosemite, this line is a gem that needs polishing. Gets cleaner the higher you go and the wideness mentioned above is not mandatory grunting but can be laybacked or face climbed around. A 4, 5 and 6 make this route a plush experience. Get ON this whilst it's dry because that won't be very often through out the year.

[slhughes]

allright internet gazers? did the mushy pea yesterday. it's very good at a moderate standard, gear is fine and all that. it's quite clean too. jump on it- the star system in the select guide is broken. stewart

[mcfly]

bump for Mushy Peas
climbed it for the first time today and wow, some amazing pitches up there!
pitches 3 through 6 are money. this route definitely deserves more attention... makes my Squamish top ten list for sure. it is currently 100% dry but the 1st and 2nd pitches are a bit dirty.
we didn't bring anything larger than a BD #6 and the last pitch can be done A0 if necessary.

[Todd Mackenzie]

Climbed this route yesterday and concur with what the others are saying. More people need to climb this route! The overhanging hand cracks were super fun. We had a #5 and #6 camalot and the wide stuff was well protected (you need big cams for 3 of the pitches). None of the wide sections were cruxes and you can lieback or use face holds around most of it. The last slab pitch was mostly 5.10 with one hard crux and pulling on bolts will get you up if necessary.

[evenstevens]

Did this route yesterday. If you can ignore the fact that it is REALLY dirty, and needs a pretty good scrubbing, then you will be rewarded with one of the better steep jam crack multipitch climbs in Squamish, especially for the grade. It is like an easier Alaska highway. I didn't have to OW climb, despite the fact that you do need a 4,5 and 6 camalot. The last two pitches are kinda silly, changes character of the route dramatically, and we found no anchor at the top, so left a sling on a tree to easily rap the route. If it got a LOT of traffic it might clean up nicely, but otherwise expect dirt in your eyes and mud on your shoes.