Off the Couch, 12b, Pet Wall

[tobyfk]

Following on from my enquiry on this thread I contacted Craig McGee and got permission to complete his project. He agreed a couple more bolts were needed.

So ...

Off the Couch, 5.12b
11 October 2013

Climb the lite version of Burning down the Couch to the anchors above Lost Highway, then shuffle leftwards along the Coffin for a couple of metres (fortuitously there is a fixed wire ...) before stepping up to small ledges on golden rock just below and right of the obvious undercling line across the glacier-polish shield. Bolt (not within reach of the Coffin). An awkward barndoory move gains the undercling (bolt) which is followed leftwards to its end ... strenuous with bad feet. Tricky moves straight up past two more bolts gain obvious rusty chains.

I think it is ultra-classic and possibly better than the Couch. But obviously I am biased. It would also be possible to start on Rocket but I think it works better from the Couch as you get a nice buildup of difficulty right to the top. There's also a full hands-off rest above Rocket so even though this line is pumpy, you could be fully-recovered from Rocket before doing it and overall it would not justify a higher grade than Rocket.

At some point I will replace the old chains and also fill one incomplete drill hole on the line (not mine).

Many thanks to AndyR, Squamishmonkey and (especially) Marie for help with this.

Squamishmonkey will probably post shortly to say I should have started on Rocket ....

[Marie-Michele]

You're welcome Toby! I was happy to help.
Congrat again, amazing work

[jonny2vests]

Nice one Toby, better than 'Couch' sounds really good.

[tobyfk]

Found myself back at Pet again on Monday so took this photo with my phone. What I am calling the "Twilight anchors" are a lone pair of bolts that don't seem associated with any route and were maybe placed for filming.