Lower Black dyke

[dakine]

Is there a way to get to the 12a pitch of the Lower blk dyke other than having to climb through the 13b pitch? Can you rap in from above? It looks and sounds like a fantastic route steep and over hanging. (25 draws!)

[NateDoggOG]

Heard that either due to holds falling out or just being a complete sandbag, that particular pitch feels more like 12+...... Just FYI.

[Drew]

The original free ascent (which had a hold come off during the FFA and so wasn't regarded as being free or something like that by KM after the fact IIRC) by Dean Hart and John McCallum came in from the left via Movin to Montana just above the 13b roof. Apparently that approach it goes at 5.11 A0 now?

The whole story is in the 1992 CAJ.

[dakine]

thanks guys,
I've been wanting to check out the route but don't know anyone that has tried it. I see in Sarah Hart's blog she was up there ( scroll to the bottom)...

http://sarahleannehart.blogspot.ca/2013 ... -home.html

[slhughes]

i had a do on this route last year. the 13b is bolted so that employing gentlemanly pulls between bolts is made available. i found the easier pitches engaging with some tapping of the holds whilst ignoring the distance to last bolt, these i enjoyed. the first big roof makes you wish there was a photographer, saturating your awesomeness above the sick brah exposure. not when you're resting on the bolt though, obviously. it's a jug on the lip- that's blown your onsight. sorry. the pitch you want to do is pretty good. here's the beta: extend all the quickdraws you can. big drag with my farty euro draws. i'd say it was challenging for the grade. i was glad i bought the helmet. i went home thinking how cool i looked to the public below, going around the lip of the 12c. they had no idea i was pulling on the draw. man (or woman) up and make an ascent from the ground, that's my suspect advice. shughes

[dakine]

Most excellent beta slhughes thank you. I wanted to do it from the ground up but didn't want to run into a 13b roof with no exit now that I know there are bomber nylon jugs I'll try and give it a burn.

[Peter]

I've heard it's quite dirty and loose (again)....