Freeway rack?
Freeway rack?
Can I ask what people would suggest I carry for Freeway (probably the express way finish)?
The select guide suggests standard rack to 3.5" (which if I've read the start to the guide correctly would mean singles) + RPs. Elsewhere on the interweb, people have suggested up to triples of finger sized gear.
Any local knowledge on this? Being from the UK I tend to place shed loads of wires where people from this continent may (sensibly) reach for a cam instead.
Thanks,
Paul
The select guide suggests standard rack to 3.5" (which if I've read the start to the guide correctly would mean singles) + RPs. Elsewhere on the interweb, people have suggested up to triples of finger sized gear.
Any local knowledge on this? Being from the UK I tend to place shed loads of wires where people from this continent may (sensibly) reach for a cam instead.
Thanks,
Paul
-
NateDoggOG
- Senior Member
- Posts: 236
- Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:35 am
Re: Freeway rack?
It'll eat up wires for sure, but the placements would be strenuous. I got ropegunned up it late last season, and my buddy did it without RPs, seeming to get by on regular small nuts and small cams. I don't think we had anything smaller than a blue Alien.
Double green and purple to protect the roof pitch - smaller sizes will fit, but they have a way of working themselves in so as to be painful to get out.
Only one #3 Camalot; the only pitch that will take more than one is Daylight Crack, but you can walk the 3 up a ways, then just run it out a bit on solid jams to get a gold in.
- Don't get thrown off at the top of Daylight Crack..... There are bolts up and to the right, but you want to go down and right. We got a little confused looking at it from the belay.
Double green and purple to protect the roof pitch - smaller sizes will fit, but they have a way of working themselves in so as to be painful to get out.
Only one #3 Camalot; the only pitch that will take more than one is Daylight Crack, but you can walk the 3 up a ways, then just run it out a bit on solid jams to get a gold in.
- Don't get thrown off at the top of Daylight Crack..... There are bolts up and to the right, but you want to go down and right. We got a little confused looking at it from the belay.
Re: Freeway rack?
My freeway rack is doubles from as small as you can go (purple BD C3 for me) up to #1 and one each #2 and #3. Daylight crack will be run out, but it is easy and secure climbing. 12 alpine draws and no nuts for me!
Re: Freeway rack?
If you're used to placing lots of wires, i'd definitely bring some, especially in the small sizes. I don't think you need actual RPs, but small wires of any sort should help protect the technical slabbier thin crack cruxes in the first handful of pitches.
Probably one of those situations where whatever you're used to will work just fine.
Probably one of those situations where whatever you're used to will work just fine.
Re: Freeway rack?
Thanks for the replies.
We didn't actually manage to check back here before getting on it. Basically, we opted for the "carry everything" approach and I was glad of having the larger sizes for Daylight Crack as we're both still quite poor at fist width cracks regardless of grade (my other half was using hand stacks at this point!).
We've now left Squamish so I doubt I'll frequent this board again. Bye.
We didn't actually manage to check back here before getting on it. Basically, we opted for the "carry everything" approach and I was glad of having the larger sizes for Daylight Crack as we're both still quite poor at fist width cracks regardless of grade (my other half was using hand stacks at this point!).
We've now left Squamish so I doubt I'll frequent this board again. Bye.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 42 guests
