Gobsmacking Wall and Shannon Falls updates

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squamish climber
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Location: Bowen Island

Gobsmacking Wall and Shannon Falls updates

Post by squamish climber » Fri Jul 19, 2013 11:00 am

A fair amount of new route, recleaning and rebolting underway in this area.

Here is a bit of a summary:
Chebacca's5.10b 3 pitches - a clean-up and dig out of a 1973 climb - getting v/positive reviews online. Yellow dots in photo below.
Styrofoam Window 5.10b - 45 m 5 bolts plus small cams

And the Squamish Access Society (bless them) have rebolted the classic test-piece Magic Carpet Ride 5.11c 4 pitches. This route two pitches were put up in 1976 by Scott Flavelle and Carl Austrom. Then Jim Sanford and Carl Austrom took it to the top ten years later. It sported unsettling quarter inch bolts. A new anchor was also put in atop pitch two. And interestingly, one 1/4 inch bolt was left in place beside a new SS bolt for historical interest.

Sacrificial Lamb received six new belay stations (red dots on photo), two new lead bolts and a thorough scrubbing. It's reported to be excellent.

Monkey Lust, now a quality outing, has a new belay, as per the old Jim Campbell guide. Breaking it into two pitches reduces rope drag considerably.
Image
Photo Squamish Access Society Facebook page
For more info on Gobsmacking wall look here:
http://squamishclimbingsource.com/gobsmacking-wall-2
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

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