Visiting Squamish...info?

[Doug]

My family and I are from San Diego and will be in the Vancouver area in early August and, among other things, will be looking to do some rock climbing. We frequently climb at Joshua Tree in the Fall and Spring, and have been doing so for over 12 years. I'm interested in getting some info on areas to climb, where parking an RV in a far-away corner of a parking lot will be OK for the day, and the climbs have short approaches...0-30 minutes.
The ideal area would be conducive to both top-roping and leading (up to about 3 pitches). Our abilities are in the intermediate range for top-roping (5.6-5.10), and the beginner range for leading (5.4-5.. Any "steers" with info greatly appreciated. Doug.

[matt magee]

Hi Doug,

Lots of great places to climb with short approaches. I would say your best best for a first intro to Squamish would be to check out the "Smoke Bluffs". Tons of single pitch climbs in your grade range that you could lead or, in most cases, make for an easy top rope set up. Approaches in the Bluffs range from 2-20 mins. Be warned for these exact reasons the "Bluffs" can get quite busy, especially on weekends. There are a couple of good guide books out there, Marc Bourdon's: "Squamish Select" will have the most up to date info.

As far as RV parking, the Smoke Bluff parking lot is large enough if you are there on a week day and/or early in the day. It can get pretty full on weekends. Otherwise there is a huge gravel across from the info centre, this will add about 5 mins to the approach.

Hope that helps get you started. Enjoy the visit.

Cheers

M

[squamish climber]

Doug, welcome to Squamish and Squamish climbing. You picked a great time to come to Squamish, the weather is the best in August. The climbing will knock your socks off. Think of Joshua Tree quality stone in a rainforest with glaciers and snow-capped peaks in the background.

I'll suggest a few things and hopefully others here with more knowledge than me will chime in with their suggestions.

Where to camp/stay.
Most climbers stay at the Stawamus Chief Provincial campground at the base of the Chief. However this is mainly a walk-in campground with about 75 tent pads. Only about 20 or so are drive in. If you have a large RV that is further limited. Getting a campsite can also be tough, it is practically full all summer.

There are two private campgrounds / RV parks in Squamish that I know of: Klahanie Campground is across the road from Shannon Falls about a four minute drive from the Chief, (15 minute walk). I have not stayed there but I know it's fairly popular with climbers.

My recommendation, since you are coming with your family is to stay at Eagle Vista RV campground. It's located about a five minute drive, 20 minute walk north of the Smoke Bluffs Park (a great climbing park). It's more centrally located to town (five minute drive, 10 minute bike ride, or 20 minute walk) on flat road into downtown. There are good walking trails and easy mountain bike paths. The Mamquam River is across the road. I understand they just put in a mini-golf which might provide some entertainment for your kids. Also the Squamish Community Centre (Brennan Park) is a five minute walk. It has an excellent pool and hot tub. If you have mountain bikes you could leave the RV at the campground and get around to most places on two wheels.

Another option if you like the Provincial Park is to stay at Porteau Cove, about 20 min. south of Squamish. This is a small provincial campground right on the ocean. There is also Alice Lake Provincial Park about 15 minutes north of Squamish. Both these parks are popular with car camping/weekend camping city camper crowds. You may be able to reserve a site.

There is a fair amount of parking in the Squamish Chief Provincial Park, best to arrive early, the lot can get busy on weekends. And as Matt just beat me to it by suggesting to start out in Smoke Bluffs Park. There are over 400 climbs in the park, most are gear protected, most have anchors at the top and easy walk-offs, there are only a few multi-pitch climbs. There are plenty of climbs in the lower grades and many in the moderate and above. Check this site for more info into areas like Lumberland for easy moderates, Funarama and Neat & Cool.

Other points:
Do buy Squamish Select 2012 edition, it's the best guide out for climbs
Do check in with Tourism Squamish, they can help with advice on where to stay ecetera
Be aware there is a large music festival in Squamish called Squamish Valley Music Festival August 8,9,10. There will be tons of people here, campgrounds will be full and it will be loud. There is also some great music if you like that kind of music.
Post any other questions you have here, hopefully you will get some informative answers.
Have a great trip and safe climbing.

[Doug]

All,
Thanks so much for the great info. Gives me some great starting points on Google Maps, guide books, routes, campgrounds, etc. Looking forward to it. We will focus on the mid-week aspect for crowds, and can't wait for J-Tree rock in a forest setting. Cheers, Doug.