Hanging Gardens at the Papoose

[natsdad]

Hi Folks:

After climbing Hanging Gardens this past weekend, I just wanted to echo the other comments about it: Hanging Gardens is a high-quality, super fun route. All the cruxes are well protected by bolts (and if you need to, you can easily aid through those sections) and otherwise it is 5.8 or 5.9 climbing on really cool stone.

** BETA ALERT **

Near the top of pitch 3, don't get pulled to the right - aim for a wide slot, but face climb just to the right of this and step left at its' top and then you'll see the top station a few more moves above.

Thanks, Kris, for another stellar contribution.

Steve

[tobyfk]

I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for giving it a try. Tell all your friends because it didn't make it into the upcoming Squamish Select guide, and I heard the new comprehensive McLane guide may not be out this season.

Maybe it would be worth hanging a topo in plastic laminate or a bag under the route for a season or two? The main 5.10 routes on the Papoose are popular so there must often be people looking for an alternative but unless they have done some prior web research they are not going to know about this thing.

Did it today for the first time. Great route. Nice work, Kris.

[scrubber]

I may just do that. Thanks for the suggestion.

Kris

[MarkR]

Got on this yesterday. Great route, great contribution to the area. Needs more traffic though, it's starting to fill up with pine needles and associated gunk. There's a large looming tree that leans out above you as you look up from the base of the route that's the culprit (chainsaw?). The combination of HG being left out of the Select guide and having a big tree shed needles into handcracks is bad news. It's climbable now, but it won't be soon if we wait until the McLane guide. Get on it, and bring a nut tool to scrape sh*t out of the cracks.

Needs traffic and a chainsaw IMO. Don't want that hand crack to get overgrown, they're a rare commodity in Squish.

[scrubber]

I'll keep it ship-shape until it's in a guidebook from either of our local authors. It's unfortunate that it didn't make it into the Select guide, but by the time I had it ready, that chapter of the book was already formatted, and there was no space left to squeeze in something new.

Kris

[geoffgeorges]

We climbed this last weekend. Nice new/old route.
Missing nut on bolt at top of 2nd pitch. Hanger hanging on end of chain. We backed up the 1st rap with cam, then I rapped off the one bolt.
1st pitch, wet on fingertip traverse, pass bolt move maybe 10b/c. agree that slinging tree is good after cam out left.
2nd pitch, excellent 5.8/5.9 corner, wet before 10d move past bolt ( I pulled on draw, could not do it)
3rd pitch, wet entering the laybacks, 10a above bolt, mostly 5.8 after.
Thanks for your hard work, I know from cleaning routes around Index how hard this work is.

[Chuck101]

Great route indeed, thanks !

Bolt still missing on the second anchor. Just need a nut and a wrench to fix it, the bolts hangs at the end of the chains.

Chuck

[MarkR]

The p2 anchor is all fixed up as of yesterday.

[triplejacques]

Is there a topo for this route? I'd love to give it a try.

Thx

[scrubber]

No topo, but you don't really need one. It's the first route you come to when walking along the base of the wall from the left. (normal approach trail) Follow the pitch by pitch description given on the first post of this thread. There are no intersecting routes that you could wander off onto.

K

[triplejacques]

ok sweet thx.