Squamish Select Top 100

[squamish climber]

With the early climbing season underway I’ve been jones’n to go climbing and I’ve been looking at Marc Bourdon’s top 100 list in the Squamish Select for some guidance on how to channel my pent up climbing enthusiasm.

I’m wondering if anyone out there is systematically ticking off these climbs? How many have you done?

By the way, this escaped my notice but Marc’s guidebook was a winner in the 2012 Banff Mountain Festival Book Competition.

Here is what one of the judges said about the the guide:

Amongst the finalists, Squamish Select stood out for its clarity, clean layout, and superb photographic rendering of complex routes. The book invites outsiders in, offering a synopsis of natural history, and sharing a ‘Top 100’ list, along with recommendations for rainy days, first multi-pitch and other common situations. In a genre where content often eclipses form, Squamish Select raises the bar in both for those that follow.”
— Bruce Kirkby

Congratulations Marc for the well deserved recognition.

[jonny2vests]

Its a nice wee tick list, I know a couple of VOCers (UBC outdoor mob) who are only around for a year who want to try and bag the lot. I wondered how it was put together though, I assume he wanted a good spread of grades over a good spread of areas. Otherwise, why else would you include Rocky Horror and not include, say, Even Steven?

[natsdad]

I agree that Marc’s book is excellent. My hat’s off!

I also agree that “best of” lists are subjective and problematic. There are so many fabulous climbs in the Squamish region that some worthy ones get left off, but as bearbreeder rightly points out, there will be crowds at the top 100s when summer comes around. Bottom line is that if you are willing to hike 20, 30 or 40 minutes, you’ll find gems with nary a queue.

Steve

[tobyfk]

Otherwise, why else would you include Rocky Horror and not include, say, Even Steven?

I wondered about Rocky Horror - is it worthwhile? I assumed Marc has deliberately tried to push at least something from every area ... which is sensible enough really ... encourage people to try new areas and ease congestion at the popular spots.

[tobyfk]

I’m wondering if anyone out there is systematically ticking off these climbs? How many have you done?

Guilty: the list is on the wall of my home office. 39/100 either led or followed clean. About 15 more to tick that don't look too demanding then it is going to get tough.

Pipeline

[jonny2vests]

I wondered about Rocky Horror - is it worthwhile? I assumed Marc has deliberately tried to push at least something from every area ... which is sensible enough really ... encourage people to try new areas and ease congestion at the popular spots.

Yes, there are lots of ways of writing it I suppose. If it was purely about quality, then it would probably be quite bunched area wise and would probably have a higher grade average.

[J Mace]

Yes, there are lots of ways of writing it I suppose.

I disagree, a select guide should be select, the best routes of the area that you have to tick. The one thing I hate about the book is that if he includes one climb at a wall he includes them all, so you get routes that havent been climbed in decades that are fully mossed over.

[jonny2vests]

I disagree, a select guide should be select, the best routes of the area that you have to tick.

Yeah, but we're not talking about the guide book, we're talking about how you pick a top 100.

[natsdad]

Sorry to double-dip, but I have to say that it is very hard to please everyone when writing a guidebook (select or complete) and creating a top 100 list and again, I feel Marc has done an amazing job. Would I have done it exactly the same if I had authored it? No. We're all individuals.

Marc has covered all areas - and especially given more "full" coverage to more recently developed areas - which is a huge service to the climbing community, given the ongoing lack of a new edition of the full climbing guide. There are many climbs omitted - although he often refers to them as not being included. And the layout, photos, etc. are excellent.

His top 100 list covers most areas, spread out across the difficulty range and includes most (if not all) recognized classics. Well done.

Steve

[Andrew Itkonen]

Agreed.

Nice work Marc.

Andrew

[jonny2vests]

Went to do Liquid Gold this afternoon, a top 100 route, but we got chased off the end of P1 by Ravens. We didn't have the book with us, but we took a line to the left, which was most pleasant and it turns out is called Krimo Gold, and rejoins LG for the main event. So I found the name from the update on the quickdraw website, Krimo is Top 100 it seems and Liquid Gold has gone from Top 100 to "Not Recommended". Lol! Anyone got any background for this change of heart?

http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Fr ... 20Gold.jpg

[AaronRN]

Went to do Liquid Gold this afternoon, a top 100 route, but we got chased off the end of P1 by Ravens. We didn't have the book with us, but we took a line to the left, which was most pleasant and it turns out is called Krimo Gold, and rejoins LG for the main event. So I found the name from the update on the quickdraw website, Krimo is Top 100 it seems and Liquid Gold has gone from Top 100 to "Not Recommended". Lol! Anyone got any background for this change of heart?

http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Fr ... 20Gold.jpg

Marketing is everying.

Hi, glad you enjoyed climbing Krimo Gold. I developed the route, named it, created the topo, and wrote the description. Despite what you may think -based on the look of the topo- Marc did not create the topo or write the description, I did and the opinions are mine. Time will tell which variation to reach the head wall crack will be more popular.
Aaron Kristiansen

[jonny2vests]

Thanks Aaron and good effort cleaning it. I have a feeling it may become the go to for getting to the LG money pitch.

[squamish climber]

This guy is filming the top 100

[t2climb]

Would be significantly better if it was filmed from above........Fairly useless otherwise.