plum pudding

[brownie]

hey there.. say, anyone know what the dealio is with the route(following the thin corner) just to the right of "poultry in motion" at gob smacking wall??

it's a delight. thanks to whoever cleaned it off!!

brownie

[mcfly]

Hi Brownie,
I started the initial cleaning on that line about 5 yrs ago...
Finally got around to finishing it a couple months ago.

It's called "Styrofoam Window" and it's 45m long. 5 bolts plus a few small cams.
Alternate start to the left skips one bolt and uses a couple more cams from 0.5" to 0.75".
I figure it's about 10a/b... what do you think?

It's a good warm-up for the 2 awesome older routes to the left.

[brownie]

Hey Mcfly, thanks for the response!

Great work on the scrub..

it's definetly a nice sustained 10, although at the 3rd bolt coming around the bulge it felt like a 10+ move similar to some of the climbing on Unfinished Symphony. It was the first climb of the day though so that could be a factor.





cheers

[slinky]

Hi Mcfly,

Are you also working on the central chimney line on the cliff? If so is it done and what grade is it?

[mcfly]

I don't know who is scrubbing that route.

[t-bone]

Climbed this line on the way down from Chewbacca. Many thanks to those involved in the cleanup and bolting - its a really nice addition to the area.

I climbed the direct (bolted) start and placed a .5 and .75 in addition to the bolts. The climb is well protected and has some cool, technical moves. In terms of grading, I'd suggest 10b - it has similar movement to Unfinished but I didn't think any move was as tough as the 10d cruxes on that route.

[mcfly]

Thanks for the feedback t-bone. So far, from what I've heard, consensus has the grade at 10b. Glad you enjoyed it and stoked to hear that it's getting climbed! There are some technical moves and hidden holds - if you don't figure them out and just slab climb then the route will likely feel harder.

[triplejacques]

Is there a topo or any photos? I'd love to get on it..

Thx.