Just Can't Do It needs some glue

[Andrew Itkonen]

Both my wife and I do this route, without the hold I believe the topic of this thread is about, and the route feels 13a. The hold may be necassary for taller people but it seems for the average to shorter height climbers this hold is not used.

Andrew Itkonen

[Andrew Itkonen]

But if the hold needs glue "Just Glue It"

Andrew Itkonen

[tobyfk]

Slightly off-topic but: I am working this thing at the moment (*). There are two quite different and independent sequences between the 4th and 5th bolts. One moving left and up on crimps and sidepulls then back right to some better holds, the other rightwards then leftwards using a ramp feature. Does anyone know which is the original sequence?

* well I was until the rains returned.

[Andrew Itkonen]

thesiger,

My wife and I have always used the right beta for that section. Traversing rightwards to a gaston in a corner and then back left to the good holds always seemed like the easier way.

Andrew

[tobyfk]

Hoped you would say that! I go right ... it does seem significantly easier. However the bolt there looks like it might have been placed with the left variant in mind. I wondered whether the right variant might have been cleaned out since the first ascent.

[Andrew Itkonen]

Both ways travel off of the bolt line. One to the left,the other to the right. Both directions end up at the same slopper/jug so either way makes no difference. I believe I may have done the route travelling to the left several years ago but the right direction is much nicer.

Andrew

P.S. There is no colored tape outside.

[tobyfk]

P.S. There is no colored tape outside.

Yeah, it's time the Squamish Access Society guys got to work on that. Surely the logical next step at Chek after fitting all those nice fixed draws?

[tobyfk]

So some glue was applied yesterday afternoon. Not by me, though my rope played a role.

As far as I can tell, only tall and/or positive ape index climbers use the hold as it forces a very big span leftwards for the next move.