The climb to the right of Hanging Gardens?

[natsdad]

Hi Folks,

While climbing the last pitch of Hanging Gardens on the Papoose this weekend I spied a belay station and a line of bolts leading up from it, on a neighboring climb. It is 10 to 15 m to climbers' right of Hanging Gardens (at that height).

Has anyone climbed this? Do you know the grade and/or name? Protection? Where it starts? I've heard it was established about 6 years ago.

Thanks for any info,
Steve

[Dru]

It could be Miles Holt's route, I can't remember the exact name but it's something like "Ex wives and New Lives" and 5.11 IIRC

[scrubber]

If Miles did it with Chris Joseph then that could be it Dru. I know that Chris had a hand in that route. I'll see if I can find out more.

K

[scrubber]

Chris tells me the route you're looking at may be Scardy Cats It's 11a, or 11d if you take the direct variation on pitch 2 to aroud the flake traverse.

K

[natsdad]

Chris tells me the route you're looking at may be Scardy Cats It's 11a, or 11d if you take the direct variation on pitch 2 to aroud the flake traverse.

Thanks, Kris - really appreciate your help.

Is there a topo available online? Or description of the route (especially the start)?

Steve

[scrubber]

No topo to my knowledge, but I believe it starts off of that triangular broken out boulder in the bushes to the right of HG. It should just be the leftmost line there I think. I'd have to look to be sure though.

K