New 5.9 Variation on Squamish Buttress

[natsdad]

Hi Relic and Lurch:

Well, "Juneuary" spilled into July and my plans for doing this new start were foiled by our liquid sunshine. But I do hope to get on it soon (forecast is for much improved weather...) and I'll let you know my thoughts about the need for an additional bolt. Noted, that it is 10a, and thanks for the encouragement.

I have helped a friend bolt a few routes...I could probably borrow his drill (and maybe him, too) later on if it really needs it and you are OK with that.

cheers,
Steve

[relic]

Yes Steve, I am ok with that. Thanks for asking.

[scrubber]

Did it for the first time a couple of days ago. Great line! I agree on the 10a grade too. Not sure about the add-a-bolt status, but I definitely felt like my second would take a big swing if they blew it doing the last few tricky moves onto the big ledge. I ended up protecting it with a sling on one of those little trees, but it gave horrible rope drag for me.

Thanks for the effort guys!

Kris

[natsdad]

Hi Relic:

I finally got to it yesterday. It is a very good line. Thought provoking getting onto the sloping ledge where the first and second bolts are. And I agree that the moves to and past the bolts feel 5.10a. However, I would strongly urge you to add a third bolt for the second. My second, who is not that strong a climber, came off when trying the move up to gain the arete and took a big swing. Not hurt, but it definitely added to the excitement. I'd suggest locating an additional bolt up on the arete, after you pull through the moves - this way the leader and second would be protected. I liked the upper section of that pitch, too. Thanks for the addition.

cheers,
Steve

[relic]

I'm curious, did you guys balance/walk across the ledge with the bolt at your chest to gain the arete? That's the trick for it. Sorry about the swing factor there. I wish I had a drill...

[natsdad]

Yes, on lead I eventually figured that I needed to get fairly high in the corner and then lean onto my right foot and shimmy across. Quite cool moves, once I figured that out. And I think the existing bolts are fine for the leader. I'll see if I can get a hold of my friend with the drill.

Steve

[scrubber]

We walked the ledge too. It's not immediately apparent because it looks like you have to make one move into the dirty part of the corner before being able to get up on that high ledge. The real concern, if it wasn't apparent with my earlier post, was after the arete is reached, the last few moves to the first big ledge. It would be much safer for the second if there were another bolt just at the edge of the ledge. If the second could essentially mantle the ledge, then unclip the bolt out to the right at foot level, nasty pendulums could be avoided.

Kris

[relic]

That would be cool if your friend or anyone added a bolt there for us. Thanks for the advice Kris. I totally agree with you. The route wasn't meant to be a bold one at all.

[natsdad]

Hi Folks,

We finally added the third bolt, with permission from the first ascentionists, on this great alternative to the first pitch of the Squamish Buttress today. This bolt will protect the second from taking a swing if they fall while doing the crux move, after removing the draw from the second bolt. We led and seconded it after installing the new hardware and it feels very secure for both leader and seconder.

Thanks for the first ascentionists for putting up this fun route. And thanks for Erik and Wes for assisting me in adding this bolt. BTW, they both agreed that this pitch merits a 5.10a rating and that it is high quality.

Steve

[Axilla]

Thanks Steve and co., nice to meet you up there today.

Looking forward to climbing this pitch.It sounds great.

Cheers,
Luke

[natsdad]

Nice to meet you, too, Luke.

I hope you had a great day. The weather was beautiful.

Steve

[c-plus]

good work guys! sounds like you've added another quality route to squish.