Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

[Optimally-Primed]

Jer F K says "Ask not what Squamish can do for you. Ask what you can do for Squamish."

Last time up Skywalker, I noticed that the cracks were getting filled in... especially at the end of P3, end of P1, and EPB variation. So last night, I did a little tidy mission and cleaned out the dirt and needles that had accumulated. Since I had already given away all my gear, all I had was a nut tool. But it worked. Took me 2 hours car to car.

Three things.

1. Sorry to the next few parties. It's slightly gritty up there right now. You're doing your tribe a service by being the first to go up, the outside penguin. Take one for the team!

2. As I prepare to depart for Manitoba, I'm wondering what the future holds for Skywalker. Is anyone out there asking what they can do for Squamish? Is anyone out there interested in taking on the role of "Skykeeper"? It'll take 2 hours once or twice a year. And it comes with all the glory of being a caretaker of a TOP100 climb in Canada's best climbing area.

3. I'm presenting at Squamish Rocks next Wednesday night. Get ready for some radical before-after shots, the making of Skywalker. Hands down the best route I developed... and the culmination of years of learning, thinking, erring, and trying again.

[J Mace]

skywalker will clean itself with the traffic IMO ... it just hasnt been good enough weather for the teeming masses to jump on it

ohhh well thank god long stretches of bad weather are an anomaly around here eh?

[t2climb]

TOP 100? How was that decision reached? Really have to love self-proclamations.

A couple years from now it will likely be overgrown and returned to the state it was originally.

[supafly]

TOP 100? How was that decision reached? Really have to love self-proclamations.

haha.. haters gonna hate.

check the new guidebook t2climb.

[t2climb]

Not a hater just being realistic. So if a guidebook says so then it must be---Don't believe everything you see in print.....especially guidebooks.

[natsdad]

Hey T2Climb:

I haven't had a chance to climb Skywalker yet, but many of my friends have and all report that it is excellent. And I own the new Squamish Select Guidebook and find the routes that Marc put on the 100 Best Climbs list to be very accurate (I've climbed 99% of the ones that are under 5.11 and agree with his assessment). Stronger climbers would have to comment on the accuracy of the harder climbs that are on that list...

But the main point is that Jeremy is not "self-proclaiming" anything.

cheers,
Steve

[squamish climber]

Skywalker was super popular before the guidebook came out. The crowds came by word of mouth and social media. You don't recommend something unless it's notable and good value.

I'd like to get back to Jeremy's "Cragkeeper" idea. If we left crag maintenance to the original route developers where would Squamish climbing be? Who's going to look after the thousands of climbs in Squamish. OK not everyone needs yearly maintenance but some routes collect more dirt than others, and many of those dirt collectors are good routes. I think posting a list of popular crags that require annual maintenance and seeking groups or individuals who would adopt that crag is a cool idea.

Does anybody have any ideas how this could work? Post up your ideas and feedback.

[natsdad]

Hi Dave,

Great point. We could have a separate thread in "New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates" dedicated to those climbs needing maintenance. People could volunteer and then update that thread to advise the community when the last maintenance was completed - as well as seeking help.

I'd be keen to join the "Cragkeeper" crew.

Steve

[t2climb]

I stand corrected.....I don't bother with guidebooks so did not know about this coveted top 100 rating.

When a multi-pitch climb has one good pitch and becomes a TOP 100 it means that almost every multi-pitch in Squam could be a top 100.

[jipstyle]

Not a hater just being realistic. So if a guidebook says so then it must be---Don't believe everything you see in print.....especially guidebooks.

Meh.

[original gorby]

Hey t2climb, how many multi-pitch routes have you scrubbed and equipped?
How many guidebooks have you written?
That's what I thought.
If you don't have anything nice to say then kindly GTFO
Thank you

[Lurch]

If you don't have anything nice to say then kindly GTFO

Not sure if I agree with this statement. Surely we are open to having a discussion around here without telling each other to "F off"?

[skidrc]

climbed it on friday. showed up early and nobody was around. By the time we got back down there was a party at each belay. Second pitch was wet and dirty, but its probably way better now. Fun times.

[Optimally-Primed]

One person has contacted me regarding Skykeeping. Thanks to that individual.

skidrc, sorry about the dirt on p2. I hope it's cleaned up by now.

t2climb, having a bad day?

[skidrc]

skidrc, sorry about the dirt on p2. I hope it's cleaned up by now.

I'd be happy to buzz it a couple times to keep it clean, if you're looking for a hand.

Thanks! Wet dirt was fine by me, made it an adventure. Especially when we have the climb to ourselves!

Yesterday, at the top of memorial crack, we met up with a party who had just got off a very wet and slimy rock on, and that would certainly be a battle.