Hanging Gardens at the Papoose

[scrubber]

On Sunday March 25, I complete the unearthing of Hanging Gardens. It's another one of those old forgotten jungle gyms of trees from the early 60's. It's been an occasional work in progress for about a year and a half as I have other things on the go. It is presently ready for action. All anchors are fixed and lines are down. Bear in mind that it's position is reversed with its neighbor Overhanging Gardens in the McLane guidebooks. The route you want is the one that goes straight up. I added a completely new first pitch to straighten it out and avoid a 30m traverse full of large trees.

p1. Follow diagonal finger cracks left across the wall until you can step to a higher ledge system, then exit right on thin face moves past a bolt. Belay on the right end of the large ledge below the corner. 30m, 5.10b

p2. Up the left facing corner, stepping left past a bolt into another shallow corner. Belay at the base of a V groove that angles to the right. 28m, 5.10c

p3. Up the groove, then back left in an awkward corner protected by a single bolt at the beginning. Above this the angle and difficulty ease considerably. Trend generally straight up past enjoyable face climbing to the top. 30m, 5.10b

To decend, either walk into the forest on the left and down the trail, or do three raps with a single 60m rope. There are slings/ cords on the anchors right now. They'll be replaced with chains next week sometime.

Enjoy!

Kris

[jefffski]

McClane's book references the start location based on the old trail. Can you indicate where it is based on the new trail.

awesome work btw.

[gnarnaphobe]

Tried to bag the 2nd free ascent in the rain yesterday but we had to use 2pa, what a rad route Kris, nice work dude!

[scrubber]

Glad to hear you gave it a go despite the rain beginning. Did you do all three pitches? Kind of funny how the cruxes of each pitch are where they each have their single bolt. Aside from those moves, the rest of the climb is pretty much 5.8 or less. Were you able to get any idea as to the accuracy of the grades, or was the wetness too much for a good assessment?

As to it's location relative to the new trail: As you walk in along the base you will find yourself standing on a 30 foot wide pile of fresh earth and roots. Look up, that's the route. If you get to where the trail turns away from the cliff for a short distance, (this is where the old trail comes in from the powerline cut on your right) you've gone 50 feet too far. It is about 150' left of the start of Hairpin.

Kris

[Lurch]

Heck ya we did!


Kyle actually stopped at the tree right before the last belay so we did it in four pitches with one ultra short one . I would agree with 5.8, maybe 5.9 some sections, but the bolted face moves on the first two pitches were v-hard with all the rain, even if the rock wasn't wet it was moist and we weren't really sticking very well so it was tough to even get a feel for the moves.

The jamming is excellent though and it was super fun.

Nice scrub Kris. Well done.

[scrubber]

Any pictures of the first two pitches?

[Lurch]

Yes Sir!

I was planning on it just hadn't got around to it yet.

Here is Pitch 1

A little less spicy when not wet i'm sure.

Pitch 2


This one was my lead and it was a gem! I tried to free the moves at the bolt, but I wasn't sticking and this little birdy kept yelling at me "AID IT! It's Raining!"

Pitch 3


We actually managed to free this one! Cool pitch, we all found it interesting at the bolt.

Good cleaning too, the only dirt was at the base.. It's pretty evident when you walk down the trail.

Can't wait to get back and hit it dry!

[hans]

Nice route, outstanding even. And good job scrubbing.

The grades you proposed seem reasonable. The second pitch may be easier, espelly if you're tall. I'm not.

Thanks a lot for the effort.

[J Mace]

Thanks for the hard work, was an enjoyable adventure.

I think it would be reasonable to add an extra bolt at the top of pitch one where you make some thin moves to the ledge with the anchor. The crack you place gear in is ok but you will tag the ledge on the way down. Otherwise a bolt above the ledge to protect the second would be friendly.

Its mostly dry(ish) at the moment.

[scrubber]

I think it would be reasonable to add an extra bolt at the top of pitch one where you make some thin moves to the ledge with the anchor. The crack you place gear in is ok but you will tag the ledge on the way down. Otherwise a bolt above the ledge to protect the second would be friendly.

Thanks for the suggestion. I did contemplate it, but decided that if the move felt too hard for someone, that they could continue traversing the crack left for ten feet then walk back right across the tufts of moss at ledge level. I believe the tree makes adequate protection for the second at that move. If they manage to climb to the tree, (which you hopefully have wrapped with a double length sling) and unclip it while standing on the flat ledge to it's right, then my thoughts were they can walk the fifteen feet across the hands-in-pockets ledge to the first belay.

I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for giving it a try. Tell all your friends because it didn't make it into the upcoming Squamish Select guide, and I heard the new comprehensive McLane guide may not be out this season.

[hans]

We slung the tree and it seemed fine for the second. It's a good climb, and deserves traffic. Thanks again.

[outofbounds]

Thanks for another fantastic route Scrubber. The grade seems appropriate especially if your short. a good route if your breaking into 5.10 gear climbing, short cruxes protected by bolts with endless gear possibilities. Get on it folks

[kevineckert]

did this thing over may long weekend, such a good line I defiantly recommend getting on it

[mcfly]

Climbed this today - good fun, big thanks for opening it up!

[rockandsnowjunkie]

Great climbing on a nice route - a very Papoose route. Thanks for all your hard work in adding another great line to one Squamish's gem crags!