Rambles (4p, 5.8)

[Optimally-Primed]

Agreed. I think it dries pretty quickly. If Diedre is dry, Rambles will be dry too.

I may have miscommunicated above. I'm movin to Manitoba in August. Squamish is still my home. for now.

[supafly]

If Diedre is dry, Rambles will be dry too.

except for that long streak of water above P3 that takes until august to dissapear.

it looks like from the pictures P4 on rambles will probably be wet and the 10b will dry quicker.

the 10b looks like a V0/1 boulder problem with a bolt at your waist anyway?

[hevyduty]

Hi ,Supafly the 10.b exit is a b/problem. I used a blue alien in the corner,and a blue dragon above ,the bolts are not really needed! Its a cool exit

[c-plus]

the 10b looks like a V0/1 boulder problem with a bolt at your waist anyway?

the bolt's around the corner and isn't really useful. but the corner takes good gear and for the crux move, you just gotta go for it! fun!

[relic]

Was fun. Good work on this scrubbing endeavor. Not sure why it is set up as a 4 pitch route when it seems so natural to do it in two.

[supafly]

not sure you could do it in two with a 50.. at least this way you have the option either way.

[supafly]

for rapping off this route, are there extra bolts directly below the P2 rap station or do you have to traverse over to P1 and rap from there?

[c-plus]

you can rap from the end of pitch 2, down and slightly climber's left, to the rap anchor at the top of pitch one of Mickey Mouse. one 60m rope will get you down.

[Lurch]

you can rap from the end of pitch 2, down and slightly climber's left, to the rap anchor at the top of pitch one of Mickey Mouse. one 60m rope will get you down.

You can also combine the first two raps and then as you described with a 70m. The third bolt on the right of the Mickey Mouse anchor is wiggling and turning in it's hole. I tried to yank it out vigorously while turning it with my cresent wrench. I got it out a bit but not much. Not really a big deal because there are still two perfectly good bolts with the one ring chain setup. Gonna need a crowbar to get behind the hanger and get it to stop spinning.

[MarkR]

Thanks again Jeremy. Out of curiosity, why did you choose to break it into four pitches? It seemed to go pretty naturally in two.

Everybody else, get on it before it's too busy to get on! Don't bother scrambling your way to the base again.

[Optimally-Primed]

Why is the route 4 pitches, rather than 2?

One of the most difficult things about route development is to think about the route not from your own perspective as a seasoned climber but from the perspective of someone who has never climbed a multipitch 5.8 before. Think about what it would be like to be on the crux moves with 25m of rope out below. A steep headwall with a bolt. If you felt insecure and apprehensive about committing and asked your belayer to watch you, you'd quickly realize that they can't hear you (being 20m away and traffic screeching by). If you fell, all the rope out would stretch. You'd hit the slab below. What sort of lasting impression would that leave you with?

On the other hand, those who are comfortable at the grade can easily skip the first and third anchors and make it a 2p climb. To those who climb 5.8 comfortably, this climb is for you. To those who are just at the cusp of being able to lead 5.8, this route is for you too.

[supafly]

I'm totally with you on that decision Jeremy, not that you need any of our approval anyway.

There's too much elitism out there and everyone needs to start somewhere, this route is definitely a great place for a beginner to climb and as you say seasoned climbers can climb it as they see fit.

The only real downside is that it cost more to equip the extra belay stations, which shows the unselfishness present in equipping this route for beginners to enjoy.

[MarkR]

I agree with supafly that you don't need any of our approval, and I'm sorry if that's what I conveyed. Probably should have been more sensitive when phrasing given the criticism you normally receive. I was actually defending your route-setting styles when chatting with another climber I met on the route.

I was just curious, that's all. I guess I disagree that that would be such a problem, but I'm happy to disagree with a decision and still have a new, awesome approach to the base.

Again, thanks.

[Optimally-Primed]

Regarding elitism.

The "elites" of Squamish have done a great deal for Squamish. They developed many many routes in their style. If you don't like the style of their climbs or their attitude, fair enough. There's room enough for difference in taste.

As a route developer, I tried to advance my own personal vision for climbing in Squamish. The opportunity that I saw was for developing friendly climbs. I believe that there's room enough in Squamish for both elite and friendly climbs.

What does friendly mean to me? How many multipitch climbs in Squamish are 5.8 or less, have no significant run-outs, and have all bolted belays?

If you like what we've done, join us. We are The Diggers. And we now have a "secret" handshake.

[enchanted]

Had a nice Rambles up to do Diedre last night. Loved it! Fun way to reach the ledge. I may never do the scramble up left again... Cheers, Jer.