The Milk Road - 9p, 5.10d A0 (5.11d)

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Re: The Milk Road - 9p, 5.10d A0 (5.11d)

Post by Lurch » Sun Aug 21, 2011 10:59 am

Wrestled is definetly one way to put it. Luke won the Rocheambo and chose the first pitch. So I got all the hard pitches.

The 10c a0 traverse is sick! Good hand jams on a sick flake that just tired me out more every move until I yelled take! The traverse is very protectable and the a0 bolt ladder works very well and it was easy to "french free". All the tactics were out on this one.

Usually I frown on such tactics but this climb was clearly above my level and I knew there was no way I would be freeing that 10d not to mention a bit of a late start.

Luke led the next pitch 10b milk run corner and almost sent it but just couldn't make it to the anchors the top is tricky!

The forth pitch was mine. I actually led some of it, then took a whip just after the crux. Relentless laybacking is right! Gave up the sharp ends after that. Managed to struggle up it on top rope but had to take to get nuts out. Left the one I whipped on in there for the booty gods.

Next pitch was mine again. Definetly fun pitch and yes if your 6'7 you can get a decent #4 friend off the belay. Would have liked another big cam for the next move but got through it. The sport move was interesting indeed and I knocked a baseball out while jamming on the right just below the lip.

Luke led the ramp. He got suckered right at the top and ended up downclimbing a bit then going left to the anchors.

Chimney pitch was fun. Well bolted. Found an anchor by the tree at the base of the dyke. We a0'd the dyke as it was getting dark, and i couldn't find the bolt on the last pitch but the move was super easy.

Amazing route! Well done.


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Re: The Milk Road - 9p, 5.10d A0 (5.11d)

Post by t-bone » Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:18 pm

Finally climbed Milk Road this past weekend (I'd been on Milk Run many years ago). It makes a great outing that is definitely a step up from Angel's Crest but probably not quite as hard as the Grand.

p1: much better than the original bush-whack. Was still pretty wet at the bolts.
p2: this is a fun pitch - can't remember how the original A0 bolts were configured but its great now
p3: great 10b finger crack
p4: IMO this is the best 10d pitch in Squish. There are a couple of excellent rests, one after 20m and another at about 30m. You can milk these for as long as you want to recover strength.
p5: protected well with 3.5 and 3 camalot.
p6: fun little ramble, but the belay is a bit awkward
p7: I found this solid for 10a, the finger crack traverse was the crux for me
p8: excellent climbing, definitely felt like 10+ (I would probably suggest 10d). The belay bolts are still others have suggested, there is no need to add another bolt.

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