“I’m not your mother, and if you want to come out here and get yourself killed, far be it from me to stop you. But I’d like you to realise that when you pull this bull sh*t you drag everyone around you into it. No one came here wanting to deal with having to drag your broken body out of here, but when that happens, if I’m around, I have to go into Emergency Room Nurse Mode and save your sorry broken bleeding a$%! So go do whatever the f**k you want to do, but don’t ruin everyone’s day doing it, and don’t drag me in to it!”
I think I made my point clear to him.
Thing is, I’m a Registered Nurse and had the kid seriously hurt himself, unless there was a doctor or EMT standing on the ready in the moment this kid hit the ground there was no one more qualified than me to deal with the situation. Now the sight of bones prodding from skin, torn bloodied flesh, broken teeth, coupled with screams of pain, and loss of bowl control upsets most people, and it’s upsetting for me as well but I’m what you might call desensitized. For most people experiencing seeing trauma like that and being thrown into a situation where they feel morally obligated to help, can really scar a person and make them do things, things like give up climbing. In short, when idiots go soloing they endanger us all.
Now I’m not writing this to bash on all people to chose to solo, I’m writing this to encourage other climbers to call out the hacks who would put us all in danger by their actions. So has anyone else experienced this before? and how did you deal with the situation?
Aaron Kristiansen RN.
I have no problem with soloing, or other people soloing, as long as it is WELL within their ability. If this kid was trying to onsight solo a 5.8, then he should be climbing AT LEAST 5.10+ 5.11- while roped as far as I am concerned.
I enjoy soloing for the peacefulness and freedom of it, but I have never soloed anything I haven't climbed before, and I generally limit myself to 5.7 and maybe the odd .8
As Al said to me once (we all know Al, right?), don't solo anything that you can't downclimb.
Ah, and yes, I agree with you on putting other people at the risk of having to deal with the consequences of some idiot's actions. Nothing is more unnerving than forcing yourself to look away because someone insists on biting off a lot more than they can chew.
last week i was climbing the SB connection with a friend who had never done it before. while we were at the top of P1 some kid from yosemite who no doubt was a strong climber climbed the 10c beside mosquito, didnt put in a single peice of gear, passed us at the belay and climbed through without hardly saying anything. he got to the 2nd station and brought his second up( who wasnt nearly as fast as he was) and managed to floss our rope on the 2nd p and then proceed to get so tangled that she had to unclip a bunch of our gear just to get through. we all got to the bottom of P.3 and he took off again, didnt put in any gear, clipped the anchors at the bottom of jabberwocky for protection and kept going.
so sure enough when it his partners turn to climb she got up about 8 feet, got rattled and decked, luckily i spotted her just because i didnt want to see somebody bust their ankle and ruin the rest of the season.
i guess the moral of my story is that people need to be more respectful of their own partners and climbers around them. i think if you want to solo or race to the top of something pick something that isnt a classic that your just going to be pushing people of off. we were a party that knew what was going on but if it was someone going up there first multi-pitch or was nervous around other climbers it would have been a intimidating and unfair experience.
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- Location: Powell River, formerly Squamish
Soloing in front of strangers at popular crags like Neat & Cool, Burgers & Fries, Mosquito, etc... is selfish and egotistical IMHO. Soloing a route like Diedre on a busy day and passing people is irresponsible and dangerous.
No one is telling this kid to not solo Mosquito; by all means, solo away, but wait until no one else is around. Soloing is about being alone anyways, so why have other people around? Ideally, what you are doing is well within your ability, so you shouldn't need a spotter or someone around to call EMS if you deck.
If you do decide to solo around other people, you best do your damndest to not make an a$% of yourself, otherwise someone is going to call you out, as was the case in this situation.
Hey draic - have fun dragging yourself to your car and driving yourself to the hospital as you tell the bystanders to F*ck themselves.
What you'd most likely be saying after falling and fracturing your legs is...
ARRGHH! HHHUUURRRR!! DDUURRRRRRR!!!! SSH**TT!! FF*CKKK!! AH BROKE MAH LEGGSSS!!!
I'm all for soloing and understand how great it feels to climb without gear, but to thrust it into others faces is rude.
Afterwards I plan to probably just wander around the boulder fields and see if there are any parties I could join, cause I need to start bouldering.
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