stairway to heaven

[j_ng]

i am planning to give this route a go...

is it really all sport, do i need any other form of protection other than draws? anybody got any suggestions or tips too? the guide book made it seem pretty straight forward... any sort of comments would help... thanks

[5.4 Slayer]

Just after Bellygood ledge, there is a runnout of about 35 - 40 feet if I remember correctly. Easy climbing but still.... pretty run out if you have no gear.

[avit]

There are maybe a few places where some gear would be handy. It's certainly doable with just draws but a few cams will make you feel better in a couple places.

p3, going up the right side of Slot Machine is easy going but runout if you just have draws.

p9, Moonwalker is also easy layback moves, but it can take a cam since the first bolt is high. (What's the grade on the short arête at the top of this pitch?)

Above Bellygood:

p1 was wet when we did it. I thought the bolts here were placed really high for the stances by the way... and I'm tall.

p2 according to the guidebook goes left but says "project"... what's the story? We saw some rap slings under a tree but didn't see any bolts or signs of passage that way so we just went up. There's a long runout up some blocky flakes, easy going but protectable with a few cams.

We ended up finishing on the Black Dyke, again, what's the story with the "project" pitches to the left?

[psi4ce]

When I climbed it several years ago, my climbing partner and I took a full set of quickdraws. We also included a "light adventure rack" consisting of a single set of nuts and a set of Metolius TCUs. That turned out to be a wise decision. Having the extra gear really came in handy at a couple of key spots.

But, mostly you've got to just make the clips. The Millennium Falcon pitches are stiff too if you find 10+ challenging on lead.

Problem pitches generally tend to be above Bellygood with the most problematic lead for me being the link pitch just below the Traverse of the Gods. That featured a wild step-across move and a "ridiculous" mantle.

The project pitches never got completed. At least that I've heard of. The guidebook is effectively wrong. Instead, finish up the final pitch of the Upper Black Dyke.

[BlahMatt]

I climbed it last year with BD nuts 4+ and Blue, Yellow, Orange TCU and Purple and Green C4s.

I don`t remember placing the green C4 but I was happy to have the rest.

[slopr]

best climbing on this route is the pitches to the top of the bulletheads and walk off, if you still feel like clipping bolts after go to pet wall. The upper half and "Traverse of the gods" isn't as cool as the name might imply.

[avit]

best climbing on this route is the pitches to the top of the bulletheads and walk off, if you still feel like clipping bolts after go to pet wall. The upper half and "Traverse of the gods" isn't as cool as the name might imply.

Yeah, I would agree. It's still a fun day out but the character of the upper pitches is very different from the bolted faces on the Bulletheads. I think it's a disservice to call the whole thing an "18-pitch fully-bolted link-up" in the guidebook; everyone seems to get the impression that it's all sport climbing.

I didn't get much enjoyment from the "Comfortable Shoes" pitches (a dyke traverse followed by some mediocre groove climbing to a tree and walking up slabs), but "Xenolith Dance" and "Land & Freedom" are a lot of fun as sport climbs.

The long walk to Bellygood effectively cuts this link-up into two different climbs. The upper pitches are harder, less straightforward, more adventurous, and definitely not "fully-bolted"... but still fun in a different way.

[psi4ce]

Yeah, but, do the upper pitches!

It's quite an adventure. I actually really enjoyed the Traverse of the Gods. It's an incredible position to be in, so high up on the Chief!

I also really enjoyed the Millennium pitches and the Upper Black Dyke pitch, despite tricky cruxes!

[j_ng]

thanks for the input everyone... very helpful

[scrubber]

Above Bellygood:

p1 was wet when we did it. I thought the bolts here were placed really high for the stances by the way... and I'm tall.

When we did the upper pitches of Millenium Falcon I put those bolts in on lead, and I'm 5'7". I think we used different stances...

[avit]

When we did the upper pitches of Millenium Falcon I put those bolts in on lead, and I'm 5'7". I think we used different stances...

Yeah, must've... but I used the good stances.

EDIT: much respect for bolting that on lead by the way... I was having a hard time of it. I blame the wet, it made me nervous.

[squamish climber]

Here is a recent trip report with some good photos of the route.