Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

[quantum7]

1st pitch was wet, but manageable. Added some spice to it! The remainder of the pitches were dry and fun. Very busy on a thursday morning at the crag.

[mcfly]

I've been cleaning up the sacrificial lamb & monkey lust area. The top 3/4 of each route has been pruned/picked/trundled and lightly scrubbed. Still a sea of rusty 1/4" spinners on the slab finish of sacrificial lamb. A bit of trundling was done on each route too.
There are 2 new 1 pitch trad routes starting in the corners immediately North of the scramble up to ML & SL. I wasn't going to post anything until I gave them another scrub but they have both been climbed despite the remaining lichens - so have at em. Both routes end at the large pine tree on the second ledge above (approx 20m). Grades are guesses - probably easier without the layer of grit and lichens that coated the rock when we climbed the routes a month and a half ago.
The wide crack in the corner (on the right) is "Tramp Stamp" 5.9 (T.Trent/M.Day - May 2011) -chimney moves to start are protected by cracks in the back. Follow the wide crack up past a ledge and gain it again to finish at the large pine tree above. Double #3's and #4's are useful.
The next crack/corner to the left is "The Littlest Hobo" 10b (M.Day./T.Trent May - 2011) - tricky moves to start in the crack under the small roof feature. Follow the crack/corner past a ledge to a thinning shallower crack/corner at the finish. Standard rack to 2" - save some small cams for the finish.

[Optimally-Primed]

The reception/interest in Skywalker and Klahane Area is simply unreal. I am hearing many reports of the route having people on every pitch, and even line-ups at the base. It blows my mind, to be honest. To my knowledge, the overnight rise in popularity of the area is unprecedented in Squamish. I'm wondering what might have made this climb rise so much faster than all others: easy grade? good climbing? SC Forum? pretty photos? Facebook? Twitter? Sonnie Trotter's post? crowding on other routes? some combination? Or am I missing something?

I know virtually nothing about the slanting dyke or the run-out face to the right of Skywalker. I'm hoping that the author of the routes will out him/herself.

Wetness on the first pitch. Agreed that it's unfortunate and not the funnest to climb through. The short of it is that I am in the midst of a project that will hopefully redirect some of the water and help the start of the climb dry faster (hence my fixed ropes still on the first pitch).

[supafly]

simply: it's one of very few moderate multipitch climbs in squamish that offers interesting/varied climbing, whilst being well protected and offering great positions.

i can think of 3 maybe 4 climbs in the whole of squamish which cater to this.. so yeah people are lining up for it

[psi4ce]

I haven't climbed Skywalker yet, but I am very much looking forward to it. Thanks for all your tendon-severing hard work.

I'm wondering what might have made this climb rise so much faster than all others

I think the obvious answer is that people are ravenously hungry for moderate-grade multi-pitch adventure climbs. Especially where you get to place gear, where you don't need to get too stressed out about the whole thing, and where you get to climb up to the top of something big.

And, the word gets out pretty fast these days, presumably because of social media.

I think the really interesting thing is it's obviously wrong to assume, as I may have, that classic Squamish climbing areas such as Shannon falls are all climbed out. What other multi-pitch 5.8 treats does Squamish have in store for us?

[AndrewH]

I haven't done the route yet, but the appeal to me is the easy-moderate grade, good protection, no long run-outs and great setting. I am just not as excited by the easy-moderates on the Apron. No matter how easy, for a 5.8 leader, mildly run-out slab either feels like you are just walking up (on a good day) or a bit insecure and not super-fun (on a bad day).

I think many new well-protected multi-pitch 5.6 - 5.8s (not on Apron) would be pretty popular. I sometimes wonder about possibilities in this grade range on the path between the Squaw and the Chief, although maybe too much of a walk-in...

[supafly]

i think for the kind of demographic you're talking about (myself included) a walk-in would add to the adventure and enjoyment of the route.

on another note.. why did this climb lie dormant for such a long time? what were the keys to unlocking it jeremy? was it purely a chance occurance or were you actively looking out for squamish moderate potential?

[supafly]

does anyone know what the deal is with the gate being closed at 9? sundown is around 930 so it's easily possible to make it down too late.

is it possible to park over the road?

[Optimally-Primed]

I've sent a contact I have at BC Parks a message, asking if the gate can remain open until 10 for the next month.

Rapped the route today.
- Shortened the stump at the beginning of pitch 5.
- added additional bolts at most of the belays to allow for two parties/anchors.
- dusted off pitch 3
- did some "water mitigation" with 55lbs of concrete. Hopefully the start of the climb will dry faster now.
- pulled my rope from pitch 1.

Skywalker is a young adult now... time to let him out in the world to seek his fortune

[Fre]

This route is the bomb!!! Weird indeed that all the other Kits bitches are on Skywalker instead of on Deirdre..
Anyhow, we climbed it today, waved furiously at Jeremy F, caused a traffic jam with 5 or 6 people behind us, and connected to our spirit animals while doing Skywalker. Andrew, my belay b%$ch on this fine 5.8 multipitch, saw some lizard on the 3rd pitch, the 5.7 that was a bit thin in places. He also took 20min on the last move coz he had no more small gear, and, fine 5.12 trad climber he is, he kinda choked like Luongo
A pedophile tiger talked to me on the 5.8 crux pitch. I knew he was a pedophile coz his stripes weren't black and white but rainbow-colored and he kept reminiscing about that time he hooked up with Mowgli. That 5.8 was stiff and I was moaning and grunting, stemming furiously and praying for some respite for my right foot that was in the crack or corner the whole time. Why the hell were there no bomber finger locks on that 5.8? Why was the crack so shallow? Damn pedophile tiger got me off my groove
That 5.4 traverse is super nice
I liked the bolts wherever they were, and if only I had had another beer-energy-shot-mescaline cocktail I would have skipped one, ... but I didn't

[Optimally-Primed]

I've updated the topo with some grade changes. The link above refers to the new topo.
- Variation to pitch 2 (original start) is 10a (not 10b)
- EPB is 10a (not 5.9)
- Skywalker traverse is 5.6 (not 5.4)

Fre:

Weird indeed that all the other Kits bitches are on Skywalker instead of on Deirdre..

hm... I'm not sure that I resonate with the tone here. I invested 9 months of work into this route so that it would be accessible to all. If a person doesn't feel comfortable getting on any of the existing multipitches (due to run-outs or whatnot) but they do feel comfortable on Skywalker, then I accomplished my mission. Squamish elitism is not my favourite. I'm for inclusion and welcoming new climbers to the Big Stone.

[Fre]

Sorry Jeremy, I was more referring to myself there, no offense meant to anyone else in Kitsilano

[Optimally-Primed]

word from BC Parks: for the next few weeks, the Shannon gate will now close at 10pm. Their policy is "open dawn till dusk" so this will change as the sun retreats.

[Optimally-Primed]

First religious experience on Skywalker? Nice photo of pitch 2 (The Flume) and of the misty falls.

[Stephen Hooper]

Did the new Skywalker rout last week and loved it. I am a newbie to climbing out doors and this route was loads of fun. Cant wait to see how crazy of a crag this area might become as it has amazing potential.