Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

[Optimally-Primed]

Announcing the new moderate trad multipitch of Squamish: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8. download a topo updated July 7, 2001.

The route is located at Shannon Falls, near Klahane Crack. It follows Forked Flume (an old aid route) for 1.5 pitches. The other 3.5 pitches are new, thus the new name.

Sonnie Trotter wrote a review of the route, and also see my tongue-in-cheek Gripped report.

In terms of difficulty, it's about as hard as Calculus Crack (with the original start). While perhaps a touch harder than Banana Peel and Diedre, Skywalker is well protected throughout (whereas the other two climbs have big runouts on easier terrain). So Skywalker may be one of the premier moderate multipitch climbs in Squamish. Additional features are optional 5.9/5.10 variations, a short walk from the top to Shannon Fall pools, an easy descent trail, and outstanding moderate cragging at the Klahane Crack area. See the topo for details.

I "designed" this climb with the new multipitch climber in mind. I did my best to arrange the protection and so on in a way that will make the climb inviting but also rewarding. But I don't claim to have gotten it right. I am particularly interested in feedback from new multipitch climbers. What did you like about it? And what could be changed to make it even better?

And now, eye candy.

Pitch 1 (5.7): dance around wet streaks to gain a crack


Pitch 1 (5.7): then traverse a bolted slab


Pitch 1 (5.7): and follow an easy crack to the belay


Pitch 2, The Flume (5.8): the crux pitch. sustained finger jamming in a tight corner.




Pitch 3, The Fork (5.7): Up a beautiful ramp


Pitch 4, Skywalker (5.4): Traverse horizontally on an exposed, gear-protected slab. Wild!


Pitch 5 meanders easily up a featured face/slab and gets you to the walk-off.

[jipstyle]

This looks like a beauty!

[slaphappy]

[DC]

Climbed this yesterday with Eric. We took the 10b variation on the second pitch. Overall the route was really fun. Once the dust is washed away, I would recommend it to newbies over anything on the apron due to the reasons stated. The 5.4 traverse reminds me of the upper traverse on Snake, although easier it is much more exposed feeling. It will definitely give a good rush to any new leaders.
I'll have to come back and do the big 5.8 corner and the 5.9 variation finish.

Thanks to everyone involved in the creation!

[Optimally-Primed]

Thanks for the positive feedback thus far. I climbed the route again today, first time out leading and without my splint since the EPB surgery. (Felt a little ouchy now and then but no rupture.)

The route is in its adolescence. The traffic is cleaning off the most useful holds and also knocking down bits of dirt, which are collecting in the cracks. On pitch 2, the first 10m had dirt in the back of the crack. I plugged in 2 pieces, and lowered down, cleaning out the crack with a nut tool. It took about 3 minutes and really improved the crux. If anyone would like to contribute to the greater good of Squamish climbing, please do the same. Pitches 1, 2, and 3 will be settling for a little while and could use some nut tool action.

If the climb continues to collect, I may rap it and dig out the dust every few weeks. I am also considering various grade changes [EPB may be 5.8] and bolt changes. So I would appreciate any thoughtful feedback on grades and bolting.

All in all, I am surprised---in a delighted way---with all the compliments of the route and with the positive and constructive tone of the criticism/feedback. I would love to hear stories of your experiences (trip reports) on this thread. While cleaning it, I looked forward to the day of people having amazing experiences up there. It was this private place for me---quiet and peaceful as anything. Now, it's yours.

[Crash/\/\aster]

Great route! Thx to everyone involved. We ripped up it this morning, the flue felt pretty full value with a pack, still a little dirty but solid. One thing I did notice, on the skywalker pitch - might be worth slinging the tree after it pretty high, I sling-ed it low and the rope was catching a little around the under cling. But stella, looking forward to hitting the alternative sections.

Cheers!

[Crash/\/\aster]

ps. I did that split decision today also, was pretty nice, still a little wet atm around the mid section - would say it was also around 5.9(if you used all the bolts), bit harder if you just use gear.
- good times!

[Optimally-Primed]

Thanks for the feedback on grades.

If others have thoughts on the grades, please do share---your views may affect what appears in the next guidebooks. To offer your views on some pitches that seem to get different ratings from different folks, please fill out this brief survey. I'll share the results when I get a bunch of responses.

I hear that people were lined up at the Shannon crag and on Skywalker this weekend. wow. Can anyone who was there comment about the experience at the belays? Did the belays handle two parties? I'm thinking of adding extra anchor bolts so that the belays can better handle multiple parties.

pitch 4 question:
is the gear just before the end of the pitch adequate? It's a tricky nut... Are people ok with it as is? I was super close to placing a bolt there but pulled back the drill at the final moment.

pitch 5 questions:

1. Should I cut the tree stumps shorter or even flush with the rock? They would be less in the way but also less usable as holds.
2. Is pitch 5 overbolted? Should I remove a bolt? (If so, which one?)

[DC]

Hey Jeremy,

IMO
The gear available on p. 4 to completely adequate. Slinging the tree up high is a good idea to prevent the rope from catching in the crack.
The stumps on the route are fine as is.
The bolting on pitch 5 seemed fine to me although I seconded the pitch and wasn't paying too much attention.

[damien]

Friends of mine climbed this a few days ago and said it was a blast.

[supafly]

can anyone comment on the dryness of the climb right now?

thinking of heading up tomorrow late afternoon.

[supafly]

oh and.. what's the walkoff time like? 30 mins down?

[Optimally-Primed]

Dryness? Not sure. A few weeks ago, it took 48 hour of sun & wind to dry after a solid rain. It's more dry in the afternoon (seepage dries as it seeps)... and can be damp again for one more morning after. Could be dry this PM. Should be dry by tomorrow PM.

Walk off is 5-10 mins back to the base. Straightforward walking in an oldgrowth forest with 3 fixed rope sections (steeper).

[supafly]

cool thanks jeremy.

[J Mace]

WOW, went up for a jaunt up local boys and holy crap the place was packed on a mid week day!!

Every belay was occupied on firewalk, Klahanie was occupied, split decision was being climbed, I just barely made it onto Man of Leisure ahead of another party.

You just blew the place up, well done!

is that you also cleaning up the Monkey Lust area?

Any idea about the grade for the right slanting dyke that is marked as unknown climbs in your topo?

Nice trails too, many thanks for your time!