5.10 crack testpieces

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slopr
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5.10 crack testpieces

Post by slopr » Sat Jun 04, 2011 9:37 pm

What's your favorites? I'm talking in Squamish, no protection bolts, good rock, sustained, 5.10, quality, crack testpiece(solid for the grade) pitches! Post em' up!

A few off the top of my brain:

Canadian Compromise 10a into Quagmire Crack 10c- if u are a 5.10 climber & onsight this u are stoked
Liquid Gold 10+
Split Beaver 10b
Talking holds 10a
1st pitch great game 10d


others?

hans
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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by hans » Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:10 pm

I've been wanting to give liquid gold a try.

Maybe not testpieces, but:
Neat and cool
Sunblessed p2
Centrefold p2
Squamish Buttress crux pitch
Exasperator
Apron Strings p1
Blazing Saddles p2
Mercy Street
Split pillar (ok, this IS sustained)

Dru
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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by Dru » Sun Jun 05, 2011 7:20 pm

Bop till you Drop
Rainy Day Dream Away

slopr
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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by slopr » Sun Jun 05, 2011 10:40 pm

pretty good ones there for sure
centrefold for sure is stout, i've never done mercy street, sunblessed or bop till you drop that one looks badass and no bolts were mentioned & the pillar obviously is a great testpiece. Does the buttress crux count as a pure crack as it has a piton @ the crux? we'll see what the jury says.

What about even steven, manyana or center street? i haven't been on those, haven't done milk run long corner yet but am pretty sure legend has is made out to be pretty solid for the given grade



A few others i recall: although short is the climb next to spiderly, seams easy? that one is a 5.10 workout for sure.
Sticky fingers 10a & the first pitch of the gauntlet 10c is a good tricky, sustained, boltless 5.10 outing as well.

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gnarnaphobe
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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by gnarnaphobe » Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:52 am

In addition to apron strings p1 and the pillar, TheSailFlake is another epic 5.10 pitch! Arrowroot being another, although the crux is short.

.. Havent got on blazing saddles yet but I hear it's pretty full on for the grade!
Imaging how much funner this could be with booze and explosives

Fre
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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by Fre » Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:21 am

Exasperator for sure
Caboose
S&M Delight
Crescent Crack

BK
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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by BK » Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:08 am

if you're really talking test piece, it must include Right wing and Milk run corner. Its hard to imagine anything in the smoke bluffs being a real test piece. classics yes, but not true litmus tests (Split beaver excepted?)

oooo... i thought of another: Wild Turkey. I think the definition of a 5.10 test piece ought to be a full rope length of wondering why its not called 5.11

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Optimally-Primed
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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by Optimally-Primed » Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:49 am

I say the toughest 5.10 pitch in Squamish is the Filibuster on Right Wing. 58m of sustained 5.10 battle, with no bolts, no rests, and a pump that will make 5.12 climbers puke.

It makes the Split Pillar, the Milk Run corners, and Liquid Gold feel like a walk down Cleveland Avenue.

This poor soul was on the verge of tears (on TR). And she had 20m left to the anchor.
Image

slopr
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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by slopr » Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:10 pm

Optimally-Primed wrote:I say the toughest 5.10 pitch in Squamish is the Filibuster on Right Wing. 58m of sustained 5.10 battle, with no bolts, no rests, and a pump that will make 5.12 climbers puke.

It makes the Split Pillar, the Milk Run corners, and Liquid Gold feel like a walk down Cleveland Avenue.

This poor soul was on the verge of tears (on TR). And she had 20m left to the anchor.
Image

Aha i remember reading the description on here, looks like a great outing! going on the list right now.

I thought wild turkey was graded 5.11??

The sail flake is 10d, the pillar is 10b, which one is harder? sorry not a tespiece- although it could seem that way as it is the last pitch of the grand

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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by paulc » Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:32 pm

I second Milkrun.

I seconded that years ago with Dan the Republican and was so pumped I couldn't move my leg for a few minutes then had to clean a piece on the rap down which was a sling with a binner jammed in the crack (he didn't listen when I suggested we bring at least triples in the off fingers size and ran out of gear about 10 or 15 meters short of the anchor).

2nd pitch of Centerfold is pretty tricky for 10b, but has rests.

P

hans
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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by hans » Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:33 pm

Split pillar is way harder than the sail flake imo. Not even close.

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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by scrubber » Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:33 pm

Mercy Street as one 65m pitch
Elephant's Arse
Hypertension (Should probably be a stout 10+ and not a soft 11a)
Seasoned in the Sun
The Flake (P1, original start to the Grand Wall)
Start from Scratch, both pitches (shameless self promotion as I re-buffed it last summer)
Yosemite Crack (second pitch of Tantalus wall)
High Plains Drifter, p1 (No move harder than 10a, but no move easier either...)
Supervalue
Burgers and Fries

That's all I've got for now,

Kris

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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by BK » Tue Jun 07, 2011 5:32 am

Dan the Republican
that must be Dan Mannix, now back in his beloved Eldorado canyon?

Wild Turkey used to be 10c but if you say its 5.11 I'll believe you (thus qualifying for test piece status)

Fo r the purpose of this academic discussion i think we should exempt offwidths, as fifty feet of 5.10 off width is usually the equivalent being beaten by a Hells Angel with a two by four for 1/2 an hour, then climbing the grand wall, which feels like 12c to me (not that i know what 12c feels like).

Even Steven at the pet? pretty testy for half a rope length but too many rests perhaps

keep em coming as i need a hit list

slopr
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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by slopr » Tue Jun 07, 2011 8:54 am

Scrubber comes with some good ones for sure, elephant's arse & elephantiasis could probably both make the list. I agree with hypertension being soft 11a however high plains is a stretch @ 5.10+ although i did it after borderline so may have been suffering from fatigue as opposed to if u rap in or do it to finish angel's crest- felt 5.11 to me for sure which is often the sign of a 5.10 testpiece i guess. Supervalue i have not done, definitely appears to be a 5.10 testpiece but there is something shiny that glints in the sun from about 15m up? is that a bolt? Yes sorry, but supervalue probably can't be a pure crack testpiece, i suspect the same may be said about the beloved start from scratch if u start from the bottom, unless you feeling like removing that first bolt for testpiece sake?!

I also think you may be doing something wrong if burgers & fries feels like a 5.10 crack testpiece :lol:

Thanks everyone for posting up, i'm sure there's more. Remember no bolts is the name of the game here!!



The long 10a @ the top of rock on could be considered stout for the grade

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Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

Post by nicke » Tue Jun 07, 2011 12:09 pm

A few slightly more obscure, stout 5.10s - all worth checking out:
• Popeye (I've seen a few strong climbers fall off the first move)
• Desperate Dan
• Mr. O'Clock (The Weak Link is pretty exciting for 5.10 too, but it's got a couple bolts)
• The Full Pitch in Time
• Backwoods Beebop
• Token Brits + Perfidious Albion (maybe not testpieces, but not your average Bluffs 5.10s either)
• Hangover
• The 5.10 at Skunk Hollow

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