tumble on squaw descent

[climberkuo]

Hey I just want to say first I appreciate all the trail work and fixed lines that the climbing community in squamish added that make climbing in squamish more accessible. that said, I took a tumble today down climbing the fixed rope off the the squaw. I guess the descent wants you to go to the right to get on some rocks piled at the bottom there, but the anchor is actually on the left and pulls you away. So when I started to lower I swung over, lost my balance and let the rope go, and fell.

I didn't fall a long ways but I fell on my back, hit the back of my head as I tumbled, and flipped over once more. I stopped in agonizing pain. What saved me my certain disaster and more serious injuries were that I had my helmet on, I was carrying a rope backpack which absorbed all the impact, and an attentive and caring partner whom i only met today for this climb. I did rip my shoe up somehow and my foot is bruised (but luckily nothing broken, I hope!) My partner helped me walk out and I was very lucky to have survived that. She thought for sure my back was broken by the way I landed.

is there a way to make that descent into the cave safer? Could someone maybe put in rap ropes or ropes with bights in them for clipping a sling to? What about changing the direction of the rope so it doesn't do that traverse? Adding more rap slings and let people use their own ropes to rap? How about fixing both ends of the rope if that traverse is necessary? And in the gully maybe add two bolts for rapping with your own rope? I know it's not hard but we rapped because of my bad foot.

Anyway, it sucked that it happened but I got lucky. I am looking to hear how things could be made safer for others (maybe I was just too careless).

I'm happy to donate money or equipment to make this happen.

[jefffski]

I'm sorry for your tumble, but there is now a new easier walk off from the top of birds of prey. if you finished on jungle warcrap then you have to head uphill to access it.

hope you feel better soon.

[Dooley]

As Jeff said there is a beeter descent a little higher. I have come down that cave as well and it is a crap descent.

Hope you heal quickly!

[islander]

I'm sorry for your tumble, but there is now a new easier walk off from the top of birds of prey. if you finished on jungle warcrap then you have to head uphill to access it.

hope you feel better soon.

Does the new walk off descend climbers right or left? I took the old cave descent down from Jungle Warfare last week, not aware of a newer, better descent.

[jefffski]

From the top of Birds of Prey walk climber's right about 10 metres. Look for the sign indicating the easy way down--i think it says "hiking route". It goes to the left and crosses the gully high up before descending.

If you are coming off Great Game or Jungle Warfare, you will need to climb up to access the new trail.

FWIW, I kinda enjoyed the old trail--it has an alpine quality. But having descended that way more than once was more than enough.

Kudos to the people or person who did a tremendous amount of work to create the new trail.

[climberkuo]

wow, that would have saved me a great heap of pain. I'm just happy that nothing more serious was sustained and I should be back to climbing in a day or two.

We did BOP and went straight and found a tree which said "climb down" and then followed that to the cave. So I guess instead of doing that just go climber's right from the top of BOP and keep walking? I'm almost tempted to redo BOP just to find out ! When I can move my neck around, that is.

Thank you for your wishes and positive thoughts.

[jefffski]

The hikers trail is just to the left of the sign that says "Climb down"".

[Dooley]

Maybe the hikers trail should be labeled Hike up

[thebigchin]

That cave has claimed more than one. Many years ago my buddy Dan and his buddy Carlos were descending in the dark when Carlos walked off the edge of that cave feature. Nasty accident.

Having said that, I've always enjoyed the adventure factor of that feature.

[sherri]

Thanks for posting up about this, Climberkuo. I am relieved to hear that you are healing so quickly after the accident. Thought for sure you were a goner when I saw you flying and bouncing down that cave.

You handled the whole experience exceptionally well and were a real trooper in continuing the descent despite your pain and near-death experience. I'd gladly climb with you again!

It is also great that your post has generated such helpful responses, particularly in regards to learning through it that there is a better descent trail available. We'll definitely take the "hike" version next time.

Hopefully the beta about the better descent is included in the next round of guidebooks. Thanks to whoever put in the work. Can't wait to check it out.

[pinner]

Perhaps if someone's feeling ambitious they could remove the old "climb down" sign? Or would this be an infraction on elements of Squamish climbing's cultural values? (I jest, I jest )

seriously though... if it's a cool, classic way down, leave it, but maybe better signage to the new way down? I'd do it, but I'm in Edmonton until 2011....