Bolted start to Angel's Crack

[Simon]

Does anyone know the grade on the (mostly) bolted slab pitch which provides a new start to Angel's Crest. It is between the original start and the tree start. Anyone know who put it up, and when?

Thanks,

-s-

[EnigmaM]

robin barley. 10a/b i think.

[natsdad]

"It is between the original start and the tree start."

I just climbed Angel's Crest on June 19, 2010 and did not notice this alternate start. By "original" start, do you mean the vague corner with bushes and trees that you take to the ledge (exiting climber's right) to the tree (where the piton is)?

Where is this (new) slab pitch in relation to that corner? Does it end at the tree (piton)?

By the way, a great variation up high (just above the last acrophobe tower) needs more traffic: instead of fighting the tree to get on the 5.7 crack that leads to the whaleback, walk a very short distance to the right (10 or 15 meters max) and climb up the right facing corner. It starts off dirty, but gets really nice past 5 meters - great jamming and stemming lead through a bulging overhang and (almost) straight up to the belay (hanging cedar tree and piton) of the 5.10 "slot" pitch. Beautiful pitch (despite the start)! Give it a try (bring a wide variety of gear, emphasizing hand size and a few bigger pieces).

Anyone have any history on this pitch (I think it is mid 5.10)?

Thanks!

[Dru]

This crack pitch you mention is in the Squamish comprehensive guide and was done by McLane and Chris Murrell in 78 according to the guidebook.

[harihari]

sounds cool. I am doing it Sat afternoon-- what pitch # is this variation on? And by "a few bigger pieces" do you mean a #4?

Also...anybody know what size gear that o/w variation to one of the 5.9 pitches takes?

"It is between the original start and the tree start."

I just climbed Angel's Crest on June 19, 2010 and did not notice this alternate start. By "original" start, do you mean the vague corner with bushes and trees that you take to the ledge (exiting climber's right) to the tree (where the piton is)?

Where is this (new) slab pitch in relation to that corner? Does it end at the tree (piton)?

By the way, a great variation up high (just above the last acrophobe tower) needs more traffic: instead of fighting the tree to get on the 5.7 crack that leads to the whaleback, walk a very short distance to the right (10 or 15 meters max) and climb up the right facing corner. It starts off dirty, but gets really nice past 5 meters - great jamming and stemming lead through a bulging overhang and (almost) straight up to the belay (hanging cedar tree and piton) of the 5.10 "slot" pitch. Beautiful pitch (despite the start)! Give it a try (bring a wide variety of gear, emphasizing hand size and a few bigger pieces).

Anyone have any history on this pitch (I think it is mid 5.10)?

Thanks!

[hans]

The slab start has been there a while as far as I know. To find it go up the gully past the regular start heading towards the tree start. You should be able to see the first bolt at least. It's a long pitch to the base of the Angel crack, bolts and gear, watch for rope drag.

There is another variation to the whaleback pitch that is pretty good. Instead of climbing the tree to the wide crack, go LEFT to find a steep finger-thin hand crack. This joins in with the regular route about 15-20m up. I would guess it's 5.10-.

Also, there is a good variation to the final pitch (the chimney). From the belay ledge, where the two bolts are, go left past a short steep layback then to a steep left trending crack past a couple of pitons. I think it's 5.10+.

The offwidth is really wide - maybe a #6 camalot would fit? Hopefully someone else knows.

[natsdad]

Hi Dru, Harihari and Hans:

Thanks for the replies and info.

The hand crack I'm talking about is a variation of the 10th pitch (if you count all pitches, i.e. angel's crack = pitch 3) - but the easiest way to identify it is that it is on the sandy/gravelly ledge above ALL acrophobe towers and this is the ledge that has the evergreen tree which you would otherwise struggle with to get into the 5.7 crack which then puts you onto the whaleback. So you don't fight the tree, instead walk by it (away from the crest - towards high plains drifter), but just a short distance, to this right-facing corner system. As for pro: biggest piece we placed was a 3.5 (old) camalot. We also placed a # 3, two # 2, two # 1 camalots and some thinner gear near the start. Also there are a few stout trees on the route which I slung for pro. Enjoy - it is a great pitch...

Hans - I'll try the variations you mention (go left, instead of right at same spot).

[J Mace]

I am doing it Sat afternoon

When you make statements like that you upset the weather gods....now you need to sacrifice something to make it right

[harihari]

I am doing it Sat afternoon

When you make statements like that you upset the weather gods....now you need to sacrifice something to make it right

Argh f**k you're right, Mace. I'll see if my girlfriend is willing to cut the beating heart out of one of her children.

Next time, I will say "and should the Gods permit, I will be thankful to climb it Saturday"

[5.4 Slayer]

I am doing it Sat afternoon

Argh f**k you're right, Mace. I'll see if my girlfriend is willing to cut the beating heart out of one of her children."

Oh Jebus, I was thinking a chicken might suffice.

[J Mace]

Next time, I will say "and should the Gods permit, I will be thankful to climb it Saturday"

The gods do take remorse as a start but I fear we may be too late, I think the punishment will be having to go climbing early to beat the rains.

Inshallah

GFS at 5pm Saturday

[Joolie]

I've heard that #6 WC friend and a #3 big bro is what it takes. There is no anchor at the top either.

Phone if you want to borrow something.

[Dru]

About 8 yrs ago I was doing that 5.10 crack on the 10th pitch variation with Don Serl and happened to look over to the side and saw a weasel eating a bird on a ledge out to the side.

[natsdad]

[quote]About 8 yrs ago I was doing that 5.10 crack on the 10th pitch variation with Don Serl and happened to look over to the side and saw a weasel eating a bird on a ledge out to the side.[/quote]

Cool. One of the things I like about AC is the alpine feel of the route. (Especially when you get on it early and it is not crowded