Angel's Crest conditions or alternative?

[sherri]

Is it still early to expect Angel's to be dry?

We're heading up this weekend for 3-4 days, hoping to climb a long multi or two in the .10a- 10b range(Ultimate Everything is also on our ticklist).

Even though the forecast is decent, seems like maybe some of the classics could still be seeping given the recent precip. Which routes tend to be the first to dry up?

Any suggestions from folks in the know would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Sherri

[Dru]

The Squamish Buttress dries faster than either UE or Angels Crest and despite the grades, is an easier climb overall than Angels Crest - not as sustained and faster to climb. Angels Crest can stay wet for a few days on the 3rd pitch.

Some or all of Stairway to Heaven may be of interest to you too.

[sherri]

Thanks so much, Dru. I had wondered about Squamish Buttress being an option. I'll look up Stairway in the guidebook.

[Fre]

I'm not sure if Angel's Crest is dry but I do know two guys tried it on Tuesday (and bailed I think coz we didn't see them on the mid-section of the route at all)
I did Squamish Buttress two weeks ago and it was dry after a day and a half of no rain.

[J Mace]

UE will be wet for sure, that thing is wet even when everything else is dry.

Besides Saturday weather forecast is iffy

[Optimally-Primed]

UE and AC will be wet indeed. The wet parts of AC can be tricky (esp. the 3rd pitch past the bolts). That said, it can be aided I think. Not a big deal. The UE has wetness too but it's all easy climbing as I recall. Well protected. I say go for it!

[sherri]

Thanks for the terrific info, all. It's much appreciated. I'm going back through the book to pick out some other options for this trip; I'm happy to save UE and AC for later this summer. I'll keep Squamish Buttress on the list, though.

[slopr]

Papoose

[sherri]

You read my mind, Slopr. I just put it on the list. I haven't been to that area before, but it looks good. Thanks! I was also looking at Jungle Warfare.

[marc_leclerc]

A bit harder but the Grand dries VERY fast.... dry for sure on an 'okay' day.

[harihari]

Angel's Crest will have a couple of wet sections on P3 but it is easy (indeed, standard practice a lot of the time) to aid. If you are climbing Sat, go to the Solarium-- it will be dry and has loads of good 4-pitch routes.