An overview of the entire area, from the new climb Sex (1) to S-M's Delight (8). Route 4 splits at half way so there are really 8.5 climbs packed in beside one another.
When walking along the trail, many folks pointed at this splitter and said something nice. It's called Gift Crack and looks to be an improbable 5.10 finger crack. Breaking out right at half height is Mr. Black, which will likely be the easiest new route at the base.
And over to the right again is the steep "Debauchery Pillar" with the retroed and straightened Rock & Roll along with the new Sex and Drugs
Between route 1 (Sex) and Battered Balls are a few short crack boulder problems and then the grown-over corner. With my work, there's not a whole lot of real estate separating the Mosquito Area from Battered Balls Wall. One day, I wonder if there will be just one wall... Some decent stuff in that area.
But alas my priorities are taking me elsewhere at this time. If anyone wants to step in, it's all yours.
Side note... just did a tally of my cleaning in the past 12 months. Turns out to be 32 pitches. That's like an El Cap worth of climbing. My goodness. I really am addicted.
Download the topo and enjoy
Here are a few photos
The over-the-top cheesy name Seam of Destiny had us all laughing. This is my favourite of the new climbs. The moves all flow together. The gear is usually small but bomber and the crux has a very do-able but non-obvious solution. See if you can figure it out.
Jay on the upper crux of Sex on the FA. Big moves on big holds. Reminiscent of Neat and Cool (but with better gear). A surprisingly fun route.
My Generation and Rubber Soul. Can't see them from the ground but they're worth a visit.
What did you remember?
Would you recommend them to a friend (or not)? Why so?
Were the anchors where you'd want them and equipped how you wanted them?
Did you figure out the not-so-obvious crux of Seam of Destiny?
Climbed No See Em today and i have to say it was awesome! definitely not for folks who are still wet behind the ears but, very good, and good protection throughout, just make sure u save some bigger stuff 4 the top.. (i ran it out a wee bit )
It was still a little dirty but nothing some traffic won't clean up.. Too bad about the anchors getting chopped tho, i thought they should have been right beside the start of Phlemish. That way people on the connection can used the upper anchors and free up the Mosquito anchors. We used the Mosquito anchors and shared with other parties. I woulda built a gear anchor but i didn't anticipate no bolts, I guess I could have used the tree...
Seam of Destiny was awesome too.. Just top roped that one, i will definetly lead it next time tho. just a quick crux. Mr Black looks like a good romp.
Wanted to get on sex but ran out of time.. my buddy toproped drugs, and loved it. still a little dirty but climbable 4 sure...
Awesome work Jeremy please continue your efforts. They are much applauded!
Great to hear that you had fun at Mosquito area. That's rad! I love hearing that.
No-see-um. Glad to hear that you think the pro is good enough. I actually cleaned the route twice if you'll believe it... it's so hard to get a route spotless. Ultimately, all new routes need some traffic. I did my best.
The anchor atop No-see-um was chopped. I'm aware of that. I've alerted the Smoke Bluffs Committee of this and leave the matter in their hands. They may be concerned about exactly what happened today, with crowding at the Mosquito anchor. I highly recommend that people *do not* belay off the tree. The tree has a weakened root system and is probably not adequate as an anchor. For the time being at least, folks will have to share the Mosquito anchor.
Seam of Destiny. I'm quite fond of that one. I found it to be a rewarding lead.
Drugs. Well, officially it's still a project. It's been wet every time I've gone to climb it so I've waited and left red tape at the bottom. But it's no big deal. I just didn't want folks to get on a wet, dirty climb and have a muddy time. I still need to give it a final clean-up once it's dry. Was Drugs dry today? If so, I'll try to get over there soon and open it up.
Thanks for the positive feedback, Mike. I'm really glad you enjoyed the area.
Drugs was dry other than the crack was a little moist. It will definetly be dry enough to clean up this week if the weather goes as predicted. Go send it!
BB i would say 2 extra 2-2.5" peices up top would make a man comfortable.. and couple 2.5-3" for the anchor if you wanna build it gear.. otherwise just bring some long slings for mosquito although the drag is crappy...
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