Route Setting

[dunndan]

HiHi,

I am really interested in setting new routes, and have my eye on a couple spots, but I've got no experience, and don't want to start tearing up the place without a little guidance. Would anyone be interested in showing me the ropes, or giving me some advice, or even joining me on a scouting trip or two and telling me if I should go for it or not?

Cheers,

[harihari]

a) Does it face in such a way that it dries fairly quickly, does not have a stream or runoff going over it, etc?
b) Is it easily accessible (there a zillions of routes in the Bluffs, some right next to classics, that have grown over)?

If the answer to both a and b was yes, then...

If it's a single pitch, your first step is to walk to the top, and rappel down it with a crowbar, a wire-brush and a light hand-saw. You want to see if it's got holds and/or gear placements. Give it light once-over. Whack flakes etc.

If you have a climbable line, you now have 3 options
a) if it's a sport route, you top-rope it to figure out where you'll put the bolts.
b) if it's trad, you totally thoroughly clean it, then you lead it ground up.
c) if it's a trad line, you could also lead it ground up on aid (this is more work, but, believe me, it's MUCH more satisfying) and once you have got up it on aid, you fix, and clean off your fixed line.

I'm almost done my first route-- and I had no idea hwo to FA, aid climb, etc-- but Mike BLicker, Dylan Connelly and I figured it out. It's not rocket science, but the hardest thing is proper bolt placement. For this, you want some experienced help. I tell you this cos, as a total gumbie, I have a had to chop a # of my own bolts

chris