More Slab ?'s

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
Post Reply
slopr
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 165
Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:18 pm

More Slab ?'s

Post by slopr » Wed Sep 23, 2009 8:35 pm

So while ppl are talking about slab shoes and slab alley and whatnot, i have a ? What is your favorite and/or most memorable pitch(es) of slabby climbing @ Squamish? Remember it could a single pitch or a specific pitch on a multi pitch but don't just say "stairway to heaven", be specific on the actual pitch and if you feel so inclined please share details of how you were reduced to tears of sadness/fear/joy and left with trouser nuggets and holes in your shoes!!

jefffski
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 131
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 7:01 pm

Post by jefffski » Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:39 pm

not so much a slab pitch but traverse of the gods was amazing for the position.

gearheart
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 54
Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2004 11:27 am
Location: Valleycliffe

Post by gearheart » Thu Sep 24, 2009 6:00 pm

Favourite pitches: all 3 on Local Boys, the dyke is great, then the 2nd pitch from thin, thin to beautiful chicken heads. The last pitch is entertaining too.
Memorable lead: the lower 5.9 pitch on white lightening, keeping the head together for a 30mish 5.9 pitch with no gear, sure made the 10's above feel easy.
Todd

jstod
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 6:17 pm
Location: North Vancouver

Post by jstod » Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:24 pm

I've always thought of "Dreams of Passion" at Ronin's Corner as a typical high-quality squamish slab pitch. Also have a soft spot for "Foot in the Gravy" because my buddy and I used to get dropped off at the top of Burgers when we were 13 or 14 years old and setup a top-rope for a good ol' thrutch fest. Maybe that's why it's so polished now! Good memories though - can't believe that was about 15 years ago...

t-bone
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 112
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 7:49 am

Post by t-bone » Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:51 pm

Dancing in the LIght....hands down my most memorable slab climb.

got through all the 10- pitches without a fall (good thing too considering the runouts) but took a few large whippers on the 10d pitch.

As for falling on slab, the best way is to run backwards fast

dakine
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 212
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 11:20 am
Location: burnaby

Post by dakine » Fri Sep 25, 2009 7:36 am

Friends don't let friends do Slab...
DJ 1%

Dru
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 396
Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2007 2:00 pm
Location: Chillidog

Post by Dru » Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:10 am

Agonal

slopr
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 165
Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:18 pm

Post by slopr » Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:43 am

Dru wrote:Agonal
Yes! that climb is awesome! Pretty steep with more holds than friction but i'd still call it slab - not to mention it is a perfect line in an amazing position.

harihari
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 219
Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 11:13 pm
Location: Vancouver

Post by harihari » Fri Sep 25, 2009 10:09 am

Agonal, the first 5.9 pitch of White Lightning (30 m no gear) and best of all, one of my all-time top-10s...Dancing in the Light. The 10s are insanely runout (but easy), but loads of bolts where you need them in the 11s.

Dru
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 396
Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2007 2:00 pm
Location: Chillidog

Post by Dru » Fri Sep 25, 2009 11:41 am

Some pretty amazing stuff at Heliopolis too but I can't remember which routes we did - Gossamer Thin maybe?

marc_leclerc
Junior Member
Junior Member
Posts: 77
Joined: Sun May 17, 2009 7:42 pm

Post by marc_leclerc » Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:08 pm

The 3rd pitch of Cruel Shoes... after the traverse. The one that climbs the cool slabby corner with the overlaps!

pinner
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 224
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:05 pm
Location: Downtown Squam

Post by pinner » Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:20 pm

soloing Banana Peel has been my most memorable slab adventure, what a romp!

It was followed by my first (and only so far!) trip down the slab descent - which scared the crap out of me! i had seen guys tromp down it in sandals with all their gear swinging from their backs, but I was reduced to crab-walking down, feet first and belly to the sky, terrified

slopr
Full Member
Full Member
Posts: 165
Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:18 pm

Post by slopr » Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:44 am

love the slabby aretes :

Ride the bullet
Ridge Runner
science friction
power windows
father and sons

Brendan
Posting Maniac
Posting Maniac
Posts: 714
Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:36 pm
Location: North Shore

Post by Brendan » Tue Sep 29, 2009 5:37 pm

I'd have to vote for Cerberus (although it's steep for a 'slab' and is all face climbing on edges).

P1 is a fun diagonal dyke.
The business pitch is definitely p2, and definitely the most memorable - though IMO p3 is the better more enjoyable pitch.

It's a great climb with too many bolts :D

Paddy
I'm New Here
I'm New Here
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:31 am

White Lightening

Post by Paddy » Sat Oct 03, 2009 3:56 pm

Too green and too stupid to know any better........

I led White Lightening way back in 2000....my second year climbing.

Padded my way up unprotected slab to the overlap beside the dihedral of Deirdre proper....stuck in a piece of gear (I think?) surmounted the overlap and looked up....way up.....to the sparsely bolted pitch. I began to climb....Oh...how I wished I could climb just a little left and into the sweet embrace of Deirdre's well-protected crack...but alas..I was in stuck in the throngs of open head spinning 10c slab.....

Needless to say, took a few 15 to 20 foot slab falls, but eventually managed to lead every pitch...topping out at Broadway.

Haven't been back since!

Paddy.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests